And out came the girls, at first, faces covered with black stockings and embroidered eyes. The thin ties closing each mask at the back of the head created a visual that was interesting in its own right. And then, there were, of course, the clothes. A white t-shirt with a square of printed brocade, sleeves rolled up, starting things out slowly. Then, the deconstruction; a black wire corset covered almost sari style in raw fabric. One dress showed the very same wormhole that Chalayan had created from layering organza at Vionnet, this one pulsing red to purple. There were also kimono-like floral print pyjamas, a tattoo top nodding to Atelier Versace's body at and finally spangly Ancient Egyptian style helmets and matching sleeves all shown with the signature hoove shoe in metallic yellow. Best of show? The sequin striped harem pants. Those and the finale, quite literally a look: a black column dress and two giant eyes peering out from the model's hands.
27 September 2013
Anders Christian Madsen reports on the Maison Martin Margiela S/S 14 womenswear show.