Walter Van Beirendonck’s collection was entitled, ‘Silent Secrets’ and saw the designer explore secret societies that exist behind closed doors - furtive clusters such at the Freemasons.
The inspiration informed a formal evaluation of menswear as candy colored slim suiting was accessorised with top hats, bow ties, white shirts, striped boxers, socks and garters. Body harnesses were strapped over shirts and subverted the predominately wearable and conventional collection.
By reworking tailoring silhouettes from last season including a focus on structured garments and the slim suit, Beirendonck also introduced paneled shirting. Accessories of hat and collar pieces designed by Folkert de Jong topped a low-key and quiet collection for Beirendonck.
As one of Belgium’s most prolific designers Beirendonck has an appetite for knowledge and this thirst has always fuelled his experimental collections. Society and the world around him has always inspired his work and his fascination with the rites, habits and rituals of diverse enclaves of society have often provided fodder for fantastical collections – but perhaps this season the stimuli need to be subverted more.
