Tolu Coker has steadily been making waves in London, but this year promises to be her biggest yet. The visionary designer is solidifying her place in fashion’s future with her recent shortlisting for this year’s prestigious LVMH Prize. Even without one of her signature theatrical shows, Coker’s A/W 25 collection, ORI: Upon Reflection, captures the magic, energy, and ethereal presence of her world in an intimate and mature way, offering a refined and deeply reflective rendition of her brand’s bold signatures.
This season, Coker drew inspiration from Yoruba belief systems, considering dress not just as clothing, but as ritual, memory, and an extension of the self. In her own words, ‘Clothes are not simply garments – they are archives of memory, carriers of culture, and markers of identity,’ a sentiment that echoes throughout the collection.
In lieu of one of her theatrical runway shows— to which critics have become accustomed—Coker opted for an immersive presentation featuring a live band, dancing, and projections of her creative process. At its centre was an atelier with seamstresses crafting toiles. This departure from spectacle does not diminish the power of the collection; rather, it enhances the quiet strength of her designs. This is fashion with purpose, imbued with stories that reflect both personal and collective histories.
As for the garments, Coker has placed sustainability at the forefront of her brand—not just through the use of upcycled and deadstock materials, but by advocating a slower approach to both creation and consumption. Approaching fashion as ‘heirlooms’ is something Coker told me at a visit to her studio ahead of the presentation. Secretive about what we were in for, she only revealed that she was looking to expand on the codes of previous collections.
I’m glad Coker kept mum about the collection because it was a breathtaking surprise. Yes, the iconic Coker uniform—the crisp white shirt paired with a pleated skirt—was ever-present, but this season it’s elevated to new heights. Voluminous puffed sleeves and a corset-style bodice add layers of sophistication, signaling a mature evolution of her signature aesthetic. This is fashion that refuses to be disposable; it challenges the fast-paced nature of fleeting trend cycles and instead embraces longevity, meaning, and sustainability, crafting pieces that transcend the moment. Timeless in the truest sense.
