It’s hard to escape Germany’s sordid history when you’re in Berlin. While the capital has become a hub of social progression, remnants of the past, even those transformed beyond recognition, continue to serve as reminders of the horrors humanity is capable of. On 2.2.25, in Bunker West—a World War II-era structure—Marlon Ferry presented his latest couture collection. Under red neon lights and swirling smoke, the concrete cavern resembled more of a nightclub than a refuge from air raids, making it the ideal backdrop for Ferry’s futuristic designs that explored themes of trauma and hope.
Black and white dresses punctuated the runway, each embodying loss and hope. The latter opened the show to my surprise, knowing Ferry’s penchant for more demonic sartorial cues. What followed aligned more closely with previous showings, as deep reds underscored the rawness of violence and suffering. These contrasting hues bled into the pieces themselves—silk and chiffon intertwined with innovative, boundary-pushing materials like latex and 3D-printed elements. Welcome to Ferry’s Inferno.
The foundation of Ferry’s work lies in the merging of classic craftsmanship and futuristic innovation, creating a tension between fragility and defiance. A brilliant exploration of experimental textures, with skirts covered in bulbous Geiger-esque scales evoking an otherworldly regality, Ferry demonstrates his unrivalled ability to fuse the avant-garde with the deeply rooted traditions of haute couture. The atelier's most sophisticated 3D printing to date resulted in intricate bodices and headpieces further blurring the lines between performance and art.
Marlon Ferry’s work invites us to stare into the heart of darkness and find hope in its aftermath, to look upon the brokenness of history and realise that, in the hands of the artist, there is always the possibility for transformation. Just as Bunker West stands as a testament to the past, Ferry’s couture acts as a beacon for the future—a future where fashion is not merely a means of expression, but a powerful tool for healing, unity, and renewal. In this world fractured by conflict, his vision offers a glimmer of light, a reminder that beauty can rise from even the deepest scars.