The tension between restraint—both cultural and societal—and the freedom to do whatever one wants has always defined the approach of New York City designer Kim Shui. Born in the United States to Chinese immigrant parents, the cultural clash between East and West has forever shaped how she imagines fashion, and while her ethos remains unchanged and elements of her daring party-girl chong siams make a brief appearance at her A/W 25 show, this season marks a shift for Shui as she explores her version of sophistication.
For Shui, this meant turning her attention to tailoring. We saw glimpses of it last season, but this time around, the cuts are sharper, the silhouettes bolder, with tighter waists and broad shoulders evoking 90s power dressing. An overcoat in deep mercurial vermilion was made for a woman who shouldn’t be messed with. As if we needed reassurance, Shui admits, ‘I wanted to explore sophistication, but she’s still sexy.’
Her ultimate muse was Italian multi-media artist Monica Bonvicini, whose exploration of power and control Shui found resonant. Notably, it was Bonvicini’s Marlboro Man Prairie that informed the Western details, like fringe thigh-high boots and lace-up trousers. The artist’s leather-clad installations are mirrored in leather strips draped around garments like shredded satin. Laser-cut details, faux fur, and lace round out her visually striking exploration of tactility, offering a fresh, nuanced take on sensuality and strength.
In Kim Shui's world sex and sophistication goes hand-in-hand, and while her interpretation of the latter doesn’t conform to the buttoned-up, traditional notions of uptown elegance we associate with the concept, it still exudes a powerful sense of refinement. Rather than opting for restraint, Shui embraces a fearless expression of femininity, using daring cuts, provocative details, and luxurious fabrics to create a collection that is both unapologetically sultry and undeniably sophisticated. ‘She can be sophisticated when she wants, she can be raunchy when she wants. She has the agency to do what she wants to do,’ Shui explains.