The Weimar Republic, the period between German imperialism and the Nazi regime from 1918 to 1933, was a time marked by scientific, social, cultural, and artistic progress. Magnus Hirschfeld, director of the Institute for Sexual Research, revolutionised understandings of transness and queer identity, laying the groundwork for concepts that remain transformative today. It is this period, particularly the year 1927 with the opening of Berlin-Schöneweide railway station—an Art Deco hub symbolising a city embracing modernisation—that serves as the backdrop for Haderlump’s A/W 25 show.
Under Johann Ehrhardt’s creative direction, SOLIVAGANT (the Latin term for solo travellers) was as much about time as it was about movement. Set within the Schöneweide station, disused trains created a backdrop frozen in time, evoking nostalgia, while show notes took the form of train tickets and passport booklets, tracing the German designer’s inspirations. This immersive approach speaks to the brand’s ability to weave a deeply personal yet universally resonant narrative into the fibres of their quintessential Berlin uniform.
Drawing inspiration from the golden age of train travel in the 1950s, Haderlump reimagines utilitarian staples with contemporary precision across 28 distinct looks. Wool and denim—reminiscent of train seat upholstery and workers’ uniforms—are elevated through intricate textile techniques, offering tactile depth to the garments. A moody palette of black, grey, and blue, punctuated by railway-sign red, evokes the industrial grandeur of train stations both past and present.
An electrifying electronic soundtrack filled the station, generating palpable energy as models stomped purposefully through the venue. Hats and hoods obscured faces, contributing to a sense of anonymity as they moved to the beat, creating an anxiety-inducing atmosphere, as if missing one’s train might lead to catastrophe. A collaboration with Polish hat maker Aleksander Jurczak introduced handcrafted headpieces, contrasting sharply with the collection’s structured silhouettes and adding an air of mystery, obscuring the faces of the enigmatic passengers.
It serves as a reminder that, much like the Weimar Republic, society is always in flux, teetering between periods of progress and upheaval. The symbols at the height of culture one day can easily crumble, replaced by the next wave of transformation. In this fluid state, the only constant is the urgency to keep moving forward, strutting ahead with purpose, even as the foundations shift beneath our feet. SOLIVAGANT embodies this very notion—the tension between nostalgia and modernity, the inevitability of change, and the relentless drive to leave behind something lasting, even when time is fleeting.
