Celebration has always been at the core of designer Nicholas Daley’s work and his A/W 24 collection is no exception. Daley has long defined his eponymous label through his ability to tap into the symbiotic relationship between fashion and music. This time, however, he found his groove in the Ghanaian folktale of Anansi the spider and the works by Jamaican poet Louise Bennett.
Dubbed Anansi Rhythm, the collection is rooted in the tradition of Jamaican spoken word as a tool for intergenerational connection. The tales of the titular spider as a cunning trickster celebrated for its wit were an important cultural touchstone for the victims of the transatlantic slave trade. How culture is shared and passed as a tool of hope is integral to Daley’s latest.
This theme of sharing knowledge is evident in how the designer pulls from both his Jamaican-Scottish heritage and his archive. Notably his reference to the late 70s club night The Reggae Klub, and the chinky knit Rebel Hat. The designer’s signature jacquards play a big role as an ornate narrative tool.
Still, the main reference point for the collection was the Jamaican bandana, informing the ornate prints and colourway of deep burgundies, reds and black. Originally manufactured by the British to clothe enslaved people throughout the Caribbean. Over the post-war period, Jamaicans embraced the pattern as a symbol of celebration and defiance.
Here, the bandana print and the brand’s official tartan are symbols of unity in Daley’s multicultural world. Lochcarron, the Scottish mill who has long collaborated with Daley, produced the prints in brushed mohair and wool, which is transformed into tasselled ponchos, knits, and cocoon coats. Daley cleverly pairs these heritage codes with contemporary cargos and wide-leg trousers and bomber jackets giving the collection a fresh feel.
As a designer, Daley continues to showcase not just his sartorial prowess but also his ability to create garments that resonate with a deep sense of purpose and identity. Anansi Rhythm is a triumph that cements Nicholas Daley's status as a storyteller of the fashion world, weaving tales of resistance and celebration with every stitch.
