‘I met my first love in Crimea’, designer Ivan Frolov tells me ahead of his A/W 24 show. The Ukrainian designer, whose studio is based in Kyiv, was inspired by memories of summers spent in the peninsula until it was annexed by Russia in 2014. It’s a poignant touchstone for the talent who has been in the midst of the emotional and physical turmoil of experiencing his home at war with Russia’s invasion of Ukraine in 2022.
While the brand’s aesthetic can be defined by a powerful sex appeal — A-list clients include Dua Lipa and Beyoncé — for his latest, Frolov sought to contrast his provocative sensuality with nuanced ideas of nostalgia and liberation. ‘When I’m designing a collection I’m always thinking about themes that will resonate with people,’ he tells me.
The show took place at The Broadway in Central London. A remarkably modern building with nods to early 00s futurism, making it the perfect contrast for the designer’s eclectic inspirations. The collection was rife with references to the styles of the late 90s and early 00s like a leopard bustier with a full skirt in an almost matching print, inspired by the swim suits of beachgoers. The natural beauty of Crimea also played a role in the collection with earthy tones of burgundy, and mossy greens inspired by the nation’s agriculture. The latter of which was used in a matching corduroy skirt suit.
For the designer, finding liberation through one's own sexuality is at the core of his practice. ‘[The collection] is a deep exploration of the human body and sexuality. How we can find freedom in it’, he explains. The incorporation of red laces, feather elements, leather shirts, and transparent pieces punctuate Frolov’s bold approach to design.
While on the surface, provocation seems to be the name of the game, his use of contrasting these elements speaks to the universal emotions he is tapping into. Blurring the lines between modesty and exposure, offering a nuanced reflection on the fluidity of sexuality and the power of embracing one's authentic self. In this collection, each meticulously chosen element not only adorns the body but also serves as a testament to the designer's commitment to fostering an open dialogue around individual empowerment and self-discovery.
Through the lens of fashion, FROLOV encourages a celebration of diversity, intimacy, and the boundless possibilities of finding freedom within one's own sexuality. It’s a power that he wants to unlock in anyone, not just his celebrity clientele. ‘I feel the same when I’m designing for Beyoncé or a client I’m meeting for the first time. As a designer, I want to create for all people’.