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Show Report: Miu Miu A/W 17 Womenswear

by Lucy Norris on 8 March 2017

Lucy Norris reports on the Miu Miu A/W 17 womenswear show.

Lucy Norris reports on the Miu Miu A/W 17 womenswear show.

The invitations were covered in Cookie Monster purple-haze fur. The entire venue was covered in the stuff too - quite an achievement. When time gets tough, people want the emotional connection of tactility and some fun. This collection delivered both in buckets.

Coming down the stairs, girls with cartoonish proportion lapels and mushroom shaped berets wore fake fur jackets belted with a diamanté flower. PVC transparent overlays added a subversive Schiaparelli touch – reminiscent of her Rhodophane cape. As seen in Prada's Impossible Conversations exhibition, this Schiaparelli garment has inspired Miuccia before - and was no doubt used as a starting point by Raf Simons for 'those' coats at Calvin Klein. Here, diamanté collegiate numbers hopped and skipped in jaunty angles down fine knit roll necks and matching flared trousers. With Katie Grand on board both here and at Marc Jacobs, the styling was multi-racial and modern too. As hip-hop infected scratches were heard on the sound track, and girls wore knee high boots - and lots of lapelled jackets - there were similar 'right on' seventies overtones, as seen at Marc Jacobs. But then again, Prada did start to mine this vernacular at the menswear shows. So, this particular political campaign is hers.  

There was a touch of Galliano's A/W 08 psychedelic / opium induced take on Paul Poiret too. Very much like we were possibly sidestepping into Kubla Khan's pleasuredome too, this was yet again a multi-referential collection from Miuccia Prada. One near flouro green fur hat combo looked like a Super Mario 1UP. Miuccia won't be in danger of needing an extra life here. There were the eccentric outerwear options, the diamanté bucked shoes, the jewel encrusted and paillette dripping party dresses, the cute pleated tennis dresses, and the red patent boots. She has both the retail game and the editorial game sewn up. It was iconic Miuccia Prada. It was off-beat iconic. It was timeless-grotesque. 

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