If Marta Jakubowski's S/S 17 collection was an ode to childlike pleasures, Jakubowski has matured considerably for A/W 17. Whizzing past the teenage years entirely, Jakubowski's A/W 17 collection was an homage to a woman's 'brilliance, sexuality and strength'.
An entirely female soundtrack, including Chaka Khan, The Pointer Sisters and Tina Turner, boomed overhead. No Beyoncé or Britney - this was a place for vivacious and empowering eighties female icons.
Heeled by Jimmy Choo - a brand which became popular in the late eighties - the models stood clad in tailored boiler suits and satin-like blazers as if power women from the Wall Street era. Coiffed fringes felt reminiscent of that time, as did the gold medallion earrings and oval hoops - a new product line for Jakubowski. It was the first time too that Jakubowski had fitted models in heels. All very grown up.
The magenta pinks and pillar box reds we saw last season returned, this time with additions of violet, neon orange and lemon. Asymmetric puffy dresses - a familiar shape for Jakubowski - were colour-blocked in said bright tones, with both extended and cut-out segments. Tapered trousers came with tulle 'skirt' additions, taking shape either as longer tails at the back or shorter aprons at the front - a refreshing twist.
Leotard met blazer in an adventurous day-to-night look for the more confident woman, while polo necks in soft velvet, some with cut-out sweetheart necklines, will appeal to the generation who aren't yet ready to don a tailored leotard. While this collection may nod to the eighties, Jakubowski is offering a modern selection for the smart and self-actualised woman.
