If there was already any doubt that velvet is the fabric of choice this season, it was here in abundance at Haider Ackermann. It was used not only as a key clothing material but was beautifully sculpted and bound in models’ hair. Like baroque medusas, the girls walked through the grand basement of The Théâtre National de Chaillot in long green houndstooth coats, tight military bandstand trousers, thigh-high split dresses and velvet toe-capped stiletto boots. It was all rather strict but it had an heirloom quality - and just enough sensuality to have us feel this was still in Ackermann’s vernacular.
Sparkly lurex threaded tailoring shone against a palette of magenta, burnt orange, raspberry red and khaki. Detailing and extra texture arrived in the form of motocross black leather paneling along the back of pants and quilting on jackets and the insides of coats. One short velvet quilted jacket was a particularly strong piece. Elsewhere, decon-recon military jackets were folded back to reveal lingerie detailing. Boxy tweed wool jackets were frayed, evoking an exhausted luxe – and tapped into the idea of these pieces being those one could dream of finding in an attic - whilst small shoulder pads sharpened the frame.
More an evolution on from last season – rather than a new design memo, the collection suggested that Ackermann is bedding into the joy of colour and texture. Further tactics in sharpening the shine of metallics - or the fuzzy plushness of velvet - came in graphic detailing. Diamond checks added a technical edge to silver lamé trousers, whilst chevron shapes ran down the front of full length dresses. A jumpsuit with curlicues cut out the side was surprisingly chic, but it was the rolled up and slouchy brushed velvet pants that were the most wearable option in the show. Like a new version of a pair of comfy corduroy trousers, they evoked Ackermann’s longtime elegant ease.
