Karl Lagerfeld referred to the curlicues, which featured in several pieces, as 'waves.' Teals, deep purples and forest greens saw him move away from the ocean, into some dark medieval woodland where cartoonish monsters lurk and folkloric flowers blossom in the shadows.
A playful collection in parts, Lagerfeld's team here at Fendi seemingly wanted a slice of the fun that certain faux fur brands are enjoying. Waves arrived again, this time in the guise of fur intarsia wiggly lines on oversized fur scarves and jigsaw coats. Out of all the design houses in the world, Fendi is the one place that continually masters how to serve up the joy of yellow from an intellectual place. It’s always slightly sludgy – like a Dadaist yellow – and this season, rendered on the most incredible thigh high boots. With a seventies bend, the boots and capes also reminded one of this decade’s obsession with the medieval and mythical - Lagerfeld is one designer who has an ongoing legacy in articulating this reference.
The design house was also talking about 'Austere romance' for this season, and there definitely was a darker Victoriana vibe with corsets, ruffles and fuller leg-of-mutton sleeves. Another way of building out the shoulder saw Lagerfeld scroll fur in a tube away from the shoulder – it tapped into an eighties, sci-fi take on the shoulder. Key construction motifs included over-sized patch pockets, with pelmet like drawstrings, which created strong pannier shapes. Concentina pleating on long skirts and coats also added architectural sharpness. The models either carried teeny tiny miniature leather handbags or over-sized striped fur totes. The iconic bags, a blank canvas upon which Silvia Venturini Fendi always paints the season, were covered in stripes of orange, purple and white fur.
A slightly less cohesive collection this season, there was lots of fun marketing fluff (the Fendi monsters were at the show, causing an instagram frenzy), layered on top of some other interesting themes. The wild flowers appliqués were the prettiest component, and the wavy boot ruffles were undulating and desirable.