What a difference a few months make. It’s fair to say Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osbourne’s debut at DKNY last season felt a little underwhelming, what with all the excitement of their appointment. Things, and good ones in particular, take time – a tricky lesson to remember in this Insta-age. Well, I don’t know what health kick their DKNY went on but today’s show was full of energy. If the Nineties hit list they powered through pre-show wasn’t enough of a hint (Michael Jackson’s In The Closet, anyone?) they spelled it out in their show notes. 'We are playing with proportions of what kids were wearing when DKNY first came out and messing with that.'
The tailored black and navy coat that opened the show appeared to be continuing on from last season but once those crop tops started appearing and trouser waists lowering, it was clear the guys were having some fun deconstructing the brand’s codes. First, those pinstripes: the back of a jacket came shredded, a bomber was so oversized it nearly reached the model’s knees and they even turned that trusted office staple into a pair of overalls. A white flocked lace shirtdress was a pretty touch and that lace appeared again on a black cold-shoulder sweatshirt dress. I doubt you’ll see anyone look more badass this season than Imaan Hammam in a sheer black crop top, a pair of navy baggy trousers with suspenders and a cropped navy puffer. Those puffer coats were getting bigger and bigger– one, lined in shearling, had red sneaker laces, another was layered over a shiny nylon anorak. An all-lacquer-red nylon look (anorak, sweater and track pants) topped with a black shiny puffer scarf was made for a New York winter downpour like the one we experienced yesterday. If they filled those puffer vests with microwaveable warming pads they’d have a bestseller. And those logos, of course – you’ve seen the finale sweatshirts on Instagram by now. Don’t Knock New York, Dazed Kids New York and the rather insightful Designers Know Nothing Yet. Some designers, it turns out, know how to have fun.