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Show Report

Show Report: Creatures of the Wind A/W 16 Womenswear

by Kiki Georgiou on 11 February 2016

Kiki Georgiou reports on the Creatures of the Wind A/W 16 womenswear show.

Kiki Georgiou reports on the Creatures of the Wind A/W 16 womenswear show.

Shane Gabier and Chris Peters from Creatures of the Wind named their latest collection Knife. It sounds rather ominous and very fitting for both the cutting temperatures outside and the foreboding setting of the show, the Grand Masonic Lodge. This being Gabier and Peters however, there was something more wholesome and witty at play. One thought of the humble knife as a design object, perhaps one created by the Viennese Carl Aubock who was listed as a reference for the designers alongside Charles and Ray Eames and Ikko Tanaka. And also knife as the type of pleat - the collection featured those, plus softer folds and volume. The reference was perhaps most obvious in the way shirts were sliced open at the sleeves to reveal a knitted layer and merino graphic sweater dresses were cut away from the hip down to show off the flannel trousers underneath, some with a braid at the hem.

That dress and trouser combo, paired with shiny patent loafers, made for a very relaxed look and the collection continued confidently in that manner. Soft modernism is what they called it - brazen labels are not this pair’s MO. There were easy camel, grey and navy coats and a light blue poplin button-down shirt, again sliced open at the sleeves, teamed with a black and ecru pleated skirt. Not tucked in - too fussy - instead it was worn loose over a turtleneck knit. If this sounds too proper for a label known for its whimsy and charm, worry not. A grey flannel skirt was embroidered with crystals. Elsewhere there were black lace accented sleeves and floral appliques and scraps of white lace, which casually decorated a slip dress. An amber leaf silk fil-coupe slip dress, with a glimpse of embroidery on the bust, was particularly stunning. And that knife again, just seen as a charm on a pair of seemingly ordinary black wool trousers. That’s the thing with good design. It seems ordinary and then you look closer.

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