Simone Rocha’s show notes promised 'nude shoe, nude you' and if there’s anyone less likely to reduce womenswear to trend driven, hyper seasonal looks it’s Simone. Rather, she consistently focuses on ideas of femininity, vulnerability and power, this season exploring a tension between the dishevelled and austere. Pearl chokers appeared again but this time thicker and bound around long, windswept ponytails, her trademark upholstered, padded panels were uneven on hips and embellished tweed was draped off shoulders revealing here and there a breast beneath the lightest mesh.
To the hypnotic sound of Sonic Youth, models weaved through the rows of audience with wild hair, flat patent pumps and hard, practical black cases. There was certainly something of a bewildered but defiant Hardy’s Tess to this season, and running alongside this new undone-ness were proud, high, scalloped necks and heavy tapestry. Sharp, short double-breasted jackets with culottes and puffy black velvet pulled everything together in classic Simone style. If you’re looking for a new direction from Simone you won’t find it here, and when the collection's as brilliant as this you’d be foolish for looking in the first place.