Man, does New York need Public School. Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne's energy, attitude and instinctive knack for what’s - excuse this old lady - cool do not originate from marketing strategies and algorithms. Other designers may pin street-style images on their boards (the actual street, mind you – not the fashion week one) for reference, but these two not only inhabit those references but understand them enough to confidently evolve and enhance them. But really, with a pre-show soundtrack full of Michael Jackson, Chaka Khan and Wham, with Mary J Blige in the front row, do I need to say more?
Womenswear is still a pretty new addition to the label (it was gingerly introduced this time last year) but it fits in seamlessly alongside its menswear counterpart, and not just in that tired old borrowed-from-the-boys way. Naturally, outerwear reigned supreme, primarily in the shape of big puffa and anorak hybrids. The one in the opening look was paired with a long pleated wool skirt with sheer lace panelling to the sides and a black felt wool cap. The lines remained long and flowing – a grey polo shirtdress was layered over another pleated skirt and under a big plaid coat (wool cap – tick) and a shiny blue chambray dress over matching roomy trousers. A big puffa/raincoat/cape coat seemed the perfect answer for battling whatever this city’s weather throws at you. The grey, navy and black palette was interrupted by brushstroke prints on long tunic dresses over knit sweatpants, whereas a sandy shearling jacket over a chunky knit and simple black trousers was very much the outfit this writer would wish to have been wearing this Sunday morning.