Peter Pilotto has long been master of that slick and sporty silhouette favoured by women who’ll pair eveningwear with boxfresh trainers and somehow still manage to you feel under-dressed. The silhouette this season was cleaner and more sophisticated than last season’s super mini minis and flared out skirts. There was something of the seventies in the wide collars and panels of shearling but there’s no doubt it was one of the most forward looking and therefore relevant interpretations of the trend this week. Clean white dresses were dappled with an organic update on the digital prints the label does so well, and green and gold stood out particularly on a sweet, short coat dress.
This was environment-conscious digital, and it absolutely worked; squiggly sparkly lines like sound waves traced around the top of polo-necks and coloured tubes crept over dresses like the branches of a futuristic metro map. The whole collection felt much cleaner than some of Pilotto and Christopher de Vos' heavier work has before, where once prints clashed against one another, here they complimented and enhanced, relying on a casual, form-fitting silhouette to downplay the graphics. This was a hi-tech uniform for an ethical girl of the future - how perfectly modern.
