Change is afoot. While Jeremy Scott seems to decide on the theme of the many op-eds and response pieces that appear around his collections before he's even come up with the clothes themselves - be it consumerism, feminism or what have you - this season things were notably less controversial. He may, in the past, have celebrated obesity then objectification, but aside from opening a show definitively inspired by black American streetwear culture with five white models in a row (shocker) this season failed to offend me. Progress.
There’s no question that Jeremy Scott is pretty much the only person who makes Milan fun, a fact made more obvious when you’ve spent a few days at the stern, slick shows Moschino is surrounded by. This, instead, is loud and silly. People head-to-toe in the previous two seasons cheered as the lights went down; PRs were almost unbelievably friendly and accommodating and every seat had a Moschino ‘Toy’ perfume and phone case bagged up underneath it ready to be snapped up and instagrammed. It was more of an event than a show and, as Supersonic by J.J. Fad started blasting out of a huge boombox that covered the back wall, I could have closed my eyes and been back at Fashion East. This is why Jeremy Scott for Moschino works; it’s not really high fashion at all, it’s loud, cheesy, brash and almost impossible not to like. The clothes were Space Jam meets the Fresh Prince; puffa jackets and thigh high quilted boots gave way to oversized backpacks, snap backs and a troupe of super-short jumper dresses emblazoned with Bugs Bunny et al. Baseball jerseys worked well, blink and they’ll be everywhere, as did a cropped brown monogrammed leather jacket. The sportswear gave way to patchwork denim with squares of gold and more classic Moschino tropes like a matchy skirt suit in black with white pockets. What was notably lacking from this was one concrete theme pulling it together like the last two seasons, though the soon to be ubiquitous cuddly 'Toy' bear face is surely the main focus. The second section featured ball-gowns sprayed with graffiti which honestly I think the world can do without, but regardless of what the world needs it’s not going to stop the growing Moschino army wanting more product. And want this they will.