Whilst everyone continues to push their take on seventies, at Marni Consuelo Castiglioni showed a collection marching steadily future-bound. There were touches of eighties fierceness (check the Breakfast Club earrings) but overall the panels of fur, raw edged tunics and thick, obi-like belts spoke of an ultra modern toughness. It wasn’t overwhelmingly hard; softened by a long, belted silhouette a sheer net top added lightness, and the organic patterns used over coats and trousers in dark, autumnal colours were rich without feeling too heavy.
The show felt of a similar pace to last season which gradually introduced increasingly more intricate, brighter prints in a kind of crescendo, but while the ubiquitous florals of the previous collection were pale yellow and light with hints of metallic and bright red this felt more like damp bark or shadows through leaves. A cut-out black skirt evoked glints of daylight through a dark forest canopy and earthy tweeds were swathed with wide sleeves of naturally dark brown fur (virtually unheard of in this frenzy of bubblegum luxury). How refreshing to see a designer work with such a linear narrative, and how well it’s paying off.
