Astrid Andersen's biggest talent is her ability to constantly progress and cover new ground with her label while never abandoning her signatures or turning her back on the clients who live and breath her aesthetic (and actually buy her garb). There's a fad in menswear at the moment for big bulky sweaters, bombers and trackies furnished with logo-a-go-go motifs. It's been around for a while but has peaked recently. Andersen's one of the pioneers not the followers, but given the proliferation of the style you worry each season that her collection will finally feel repetitive, expected even. But she never rests on her on her laurels and she never fails to up her game.
For A/W 15 she'd waved goodbye to the floaty kimono shapes that dominated seasons past. She hadn't let go of the oriental influences all together - that would be unwise given that her brand thrives in South Korea, Taiwan and Japan - but had changed them up, transplanting them to America by channelling a gangster living in New Jersey (Ghost Dog: The Way of the Samurai was a big reference). The inspiration of the secretive life of a hitman explains the more muted tones - less Tequila Sunrise colours and more black and iridescent midnight sky finishes - and the wrapped-up layers (knitwear was a new addition) and military details.
Andersen's men always look tough. It's her great skill that they can still look macho and cool when sporting pink lace. But this season they were stronger than ever. In those bulky jackets and berets they almost became intimidating. But that's fine - Andersen is a force to be reckoned with, both commercially and creatively, so why shouldn't her blokes look powerful and like they could knock you side ways? Andersen's mighty, don't you forget it.
