Since starting his eponymous label in 2011, Central Saint Martins trained Shaun Samson has stood at the forefront of London's casual army. Shorts, baggy t-shirts and sweatshirts are his game, and loose and low is his signature style. For Autumn/Winter 2013 he upped the ante by increasing the volume even more. This was super-sized Samson.
Particularly notable this season was his ability to make louche knits and billowing pyjama shirts look tough, assured and imposing - even regal when accessorised with a trailing blanket-cum-cape over one shoulder. It's pleasant to see a young designer pushing the current vogue for relaxed sweaters and baggy board shorts into a new, fresh arena outside of the typical confines of casual ease and effortlessness that surround high fashion streetwear.
The cartoon sizing of the pieces gave the collection a macho, competitive undertone, most evident in the striped tent-like football tunics in different shades of red, green and grey, which suggested allegiance to rival sports teams. You could almost smell the testosterone.
This collection was about power and strength, rather than seasonal style. Then again, the hierarchies of the street are as firm as those of the boardroom, so why not reflect that, as real urban men do, in sportswear as well as suiting?
