To the grinding tune of nineties psych-rock anthem ‘Pepper’ by Butthole Surfers, Rodarte sent out a bad-romantic ode to their childhood spent in Santa Cruz, California. The lazy beach-town vibe, circa 1980, was ever-present in striking silk tie-dyed kaftan-inspired gowns – some intermixed with florals for an amped up vintage feel. Nostalgic craft elements came through in crystal studded, fringed alpaca sweater and skirt sets, while oversize leather biker jackets and billowy acid-wash silk ensembles hinted at a darker Santa Cruz style made famous via the cult classic, ‘Lost Boys’.
Where last season the designer’s looked to the fourties, this season saw the re-emergence of a more tough-chic aesthetic that mashed up elements of the seventies, eighties and ninties – the latter decade making its undeniable appearance as low-slung pants with studded belts atop high-waisted body suits revealing bare hips. Model of the moment Chloe Nørgaard stole the show with popping neon hair she’d apparently dip-dyed herself pre-show to match her outfit – a DIY feat that neatly underscored the collection’s multilayered post-punk themes.
