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Show Report

Show Report: Dolce & Gabbana A/W 13 Menswear

by Lou Stoppard on 12 January 2013

Lou Stoppard reports on the Dolce & Gabbana A/W 13 menswear show.

Lou Stoppard reports on the Dolce & Gabbana A/W 13 menswear show.

Thou shall wear Dolce & Gabbana for Autumn/Winter 2013! Today, Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce repented for last season's rugged, boisterous Sicilian lads with a romantic display of religious purity and piety. Humble Catholic school boys appeared in paper bag waisted trousers and white shirts, while strict Italian patriarchs were in jackets crafted from intricate lace, a Dolce & Gabbana signature.

The opulence of the Catholic church was reflected in the decorated floral jackets, which nodded towards crafts such as tapestry and still life painting. Similarly, the idolatrous nature of Italian worship was celebrated more literally in tunics printed with portraits of the Virgin Mary, two of which were a high-camp vision of wealth and splendour thanks to heavy caviar beading and embroidered gems. As usual, the suit underpinned much of the work on show. This season, however, variations such as form fitted cropped waistcoats and jackets had been introduced.

It's no secret or surprise that Dolce & Gabbana are fiercely proud of their Sicilian roots and continue to be inspired by the traditions and quirks of Italian life. But, there was something nostalgic rather than celebratory about this deference to one of the country's largest and most traditional institutions, as if the duo had started to see that some aspects of their country do not live up to their theatrical, optimistic interpretations. Maybe the lesson was no matter what that happens to the economy, or regardless of whether the scandalous Silvio Berlusconi does win power again, Italian faith and virtue can be preserved through the work of Dolce and Gabbana. Fashion as salvation? Amen to that.

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