Unusually for Demeulemeester, the show venue was drenched in white floaty curtains and the show invitation, a classic white handkerchief, suggested the designer was straying from her signature shadowy approach.
Thankfully the Belgian designer remained loyal, with a black and white palette, and familiar Demeulemeester codes were evident with a richly beautiful and sensitive realised collection. Light as air the serene approach presented a tranquil and technically crafted collection of refined Demeulemeester classics.
As the soundtrack billowed out, 'O Children', apparently a new song by Nick Cave, the saintly voice infused spiritual overtones, which hung in the air and encircled the heavenly clothes. Sheer smocks, elongated jackets and waistcoats were layered over long shirts and fitted trousers. Loose layering and flowing fabrics hid fitted pants, or wide trousers and printed fabrics include a baroque clover print on jackets and cropped trousers. Raven feathers decorated hats and several models wore net-veiled bowler hats.
Exploring both feminine and dandy notions, romantic reflection is core to Demeulemeester and the designer’s skill evolves, creating clothes that have soul stitched into every garment. Demeulemeester's customer is romantic and not scared to blend the gender lines and each season the designer continues to develop her subtle and beautiful sensibility to respond to the ever-changing world of contemporary menswear.