:: SHOWstudio - Shelf Appeal ::

Few of us -if we are completely honest- really wish to stand out from those around us. Should the focus of attention shift towards us then, yes, we would like to be found neat and clean; chic even. But garments that create a sensation all of their own, upstaging the wearer -or to paraphrase Coco Chanel, clothes that wear you- are nothing short of an undesirable encumbrance. How many vast, wide-brimmed hats, for instance, do you see worn outside provincial weddings?

And yet I find myself hopelessly drawn to just this. The magnificent constructions atop the heads of Yohji Yamamoto's models, positively wafted down his Spring/Summer '04 catwalk, imbuing their wearers with the utmost grace and beauty. Qualities, surely, that most of us could live with? A modern re-working of the Japanese worker staple, the coolie hat, this sculptural object of beauty consists of nothing more than an oversized PVC disc draped over a moderately proportioned straw hat.

But Yohji's grasp of Modernist form, his sensitivity to colour -witness how the virtually colourless plastic of the enigmatic veil projects a gorgeous blush tone onto its wearer's complexion - and his audacious use of different scales demonstrates exactly what inspires such fierce loyalty from the veteran designer's consumers. In essence, it's a question of trust. However much of a statement the Yohji straw hat makes, its grateful bearer knows that it is one of exquisite, implicit taste.

Text by Penny Martin

Shelf Appeal archive
15.12.04: Flowerbomb by Viktor & Rolf
20.10.04: Blouse Bag by Ann-Sofie Back
30.09.04: Contact Lenses by Christian Dior
07.09.04: BMX by Y-3
25.08.04: Helmet by Stephen Jones for GIBO by Julie Verhoeven
05.08.04: Suitcase by Bottega Veneta
21.07.04: Sequinned Knickers by Alexander McQueen
08.07.04: Tennis Court Pump by Chanel
18.06.04: Parasol by Eley Kishimoto
14.05.04: Toolkit by Prada
07.05.04: Feather Headband by Miu Miu
26.04.04: Measuring Tape Belt by Tatty Devine
08.04.04: Easter Bunny Biscuits by Fortnum & Mason
31.03.04: Teapot by Vivienne Westwood for Coalport
24.03.04: Hair Brush by BLESS
12.03.04: Canderel Dispenser by Lagerfeld Gallery
04.03.04: Volleyball by Y-3
26.02.04: Bracelet by YSL
16.02.04: Lace Mask by Lanvin
04.02.04: Necklace by Marni
26.01.04: Straw Hat by Yohji Yamamoto
16.01.04: Edo Bells by Martin Margiela
19.12.03: Shimmering Stilettos by Viktor & Rolf

With thanks to Jane Audas