SHELF APPEAL: Necklace
by Marni

This necklace from Marni's S/S '04 collection is no mere 'pendant on a chain' affair. It is a statement, as they say, of two halves, in which Consuleo Castiglioni's trademark vintage printed fabrics and home-crafted techniques are deftly refined in the construction of a deluxe fashion accessory.

Falling from a simple leather cord, a series of kitsch, quilted flowers start the piece, upholstered in the mis-matched fabrics that characterised the Marni designer's loving interpretation of the 1950s this season. Their geeky brown checks and patchwork construction -reminiscent of cheap Chinese pincushions- give way to a more graphic statement below, with a sequence of appliquéd characters fashioned in leather. The flat colour of the turquoise squirrel, salmon bird and mustard, leaf-patterned tree provides a clean contrast to the muddy hues and lumpy forms of the flowers. Though with visible stitching and hand-knotted cords stringing it together, evidence of the leatherwork's crafty assemblage asserts its redoubtable Marni heritage. Similarly, the lovely brown leather strap that curves up to meet the silver clasp is a nod to Italy's tradition of luxury leather-craft. Crucially, after the naivety of the Haight-Ashburyesque flowers and cartoon characters, the strap also contributes a balancing, adult note: referencing dog collar or leash?

Worn high to one side at the catwalk show, the necklace draped down the edge of necklines almost like a sash, creating a diagonal gesture that added (literal) weight to the brand's fluid tailoring and use of layering. A pretty focus for an eclectic look, the piece demonstrates how with judicious balance of materials, the most whimsical of forms can provide an invigorating counterpoint to luxury womenswear.

Text by Penny Martin

Shelf Appeal archive
15.12.04: Flowerbomb by Viktor & Rolf
20.10.04: Blouse Bag by Ann-Sofie Back
30.09.04: Contact Lenses by Christian Dior
07.09.04: BMX by Y-3
25.08.04: Helmet by Stephen Jones for GIBO by Julie Verhoeven
05.08.04: Suitcase by Bottega Veneta
21.07.04: Sequinned Knickers by Alexander McQueen
08.07.04: Tennis Court Pump by Chanel
18.06.04: Parasol by Eley Kishimoto
14.05.04: Toolkit by Prada
07.05.04: Feather Headband by Miu Miu
26.04.04: Measuring Tape Belt by Tatty Devine
08.04.04: Easter Bunny Biscuits by Fortnum & Mason
31.03.04: Teapot by Vivienne Westwood for Coalport
24.03.04: Hair Brush by BLESS
12.03.04: Canderel Dispenser by Lagerfeld Gallery
04.03.04: Volleyball by Y-3
26.02.04: Bracelet by YSL
16.02.04: Lace Mask by Lanvin
04.02.04: Necklace by Marni
26.01.04: Straw Hat by Yohji Yamamoto
16.01.04: Edo Bells by Martin Margiela
19.12.03: Shimmering Stilettos by Viktor & Rolf

With thanks to Jane Audas