>Project Blog
By Laura Bradley, 17:44 Mon 09 Oct 2006
After three weeks of (almost non-stop) fashion coverage, our final instalment from Paris Fashion Week centres on our visit to the Balenciaga showroom. Situated in the 6th arrondissement -the building also houses the atelier, press offices and the bi-annual catwalk presentations- the impressive showroom, recently decorated with an industrial colour theme (electric blue and grey with white acrylic display stands), played host to Ghesquiere's S/S '07 collection, displayed on clothing rails, a series of mannequin legs and on models that circulated the space alongside rolling footage from Tuesday's runway show screened on small television monitors. The extensive range -including pieces from the pre-season, show and selling collections- inspired by the 1980s 'Transformers' toyline, clearly demonstrated Ghesquiere's virtuoso technical abilities, futuristic design vision and continued commitment to the skinny silhouette. The much-coveted and commercially viable components of the Balenciaga brand were displayed in adjoining rooms: structured bag designs presented in varying shades joined the infamous Lariat as well as goggle-style glasses, gold cartridge belts and intriguing razor-sharp, stiletto-heeled shoes, courtesy of long-time collaborator Pierre Hardy (a similar design was spotted during our visit to Hardy's showroom earlier in the week), fashioned in metallic snakeskin.
By Penny Martin, 11:32 Mon 09 Oct 2006
Video clip via phone:
By Penny Martin, 11:24 Mon 09 Oct 2006
Video clip via phone:
By Penny Martin, 10:25 Mon 09 Oct 2006
Video clip via phone:
Went a bit quiet on you there: yesterday the phone went pop with sending all these films! Just a couple more...
By Penny Martin, 01:11 Sun 08 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
By Penny Martin, 01:08 Sun 08 Oct 2006
Video clip via phone:
By Penny Martin, 01:01 Sun 08 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
The theme of tonight's celebrations for Jean Paul Gaultier's 30 year was magic and to begin the entertainment, they asked all the big figures of fashion to perform magic tricks! Pictured here -from afar- is Lucinda Chambers as the vanishing lady.
By Penny Martin, 13:17 Sat 07 Oct 2006
Video clip via phone:
Listen to Pierre explain the origins of his fountain shoes.
By Penny Martin, 13:02 Sat 07 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
We travelled northwards to Pierre Hardy's showroom this morning for our biannual lesson in shoe construction. Our favourite shoe 'stories' were there silver baubled beauties -based on the Paul Bury fountain at the Palais Royale- and this flat with a distorted circle emblem, based on links in a Tibetan again. Also interesting is the line based on Sotsass and Memphis and Hardy's evolving line of bags. Particularly good are the canvas ones with fluro leather trim.
By Penny Martin, 21:02 Fri 06 Oct 2006
Video clip via phone:
By Penny Martin, 20:57 Fri 06 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
Witness a dress made entirely from fresh flowers!Trapped petals, Goya drawings, Mexican dress and the most scandalous woman of her day, the Marchioness Luisa Casati were all influences for this extremely stylised collection. The real crowd pleaser was the final group of veiled gowns, modelled on flowers, which earned the designer a standing ovation.
By Penny Martin, 19:10 Fri 06 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
The show, set at the Cirque d'Hiver, is still filling up. But so far, we know it's entitled 'Sarabande' -as in G.F. Handel- and the stage is set like a deserted concert ballroom. The voiceover from Barry Lyndon is playing.
By Penny Martin, 18:44 Fri 06 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
Look what arrived under my hotel door in advance of the McQueen show tonight! A reproduction of one of Nick's ongoing rose series, is this beautiful flower a clue to the collection we are about to see?!
By Penny Martin, 11:03 Fri 06 Oct 2006
Video clip via phone:
Chanel was another first for us and King Karl didn't disappoint with this great finale. What appeared to be a Japonist house with screens opened up to reveal his working atelier behind. We're all for showing studio process, of course: couldn't see if they'd installed webcams, however...
By Penny Martin, 10:56 Fri 06 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
You've got to love Karl Lagerfeld's little anthropomorphic joke of dressing at least one of his models as himself. For the most part, though, the collection was monochrome, very young and very short. I particularly liked all the playing around with sheer fabrics.
By Penny Martin, 09:16 Fri 06 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
An early morning appointment at YSL -we were first in at 9!- confirms that the S/S collection demands close-up scrutiny. What a seat in the gods couldn't show you was the exemplary workmanship that has come with Pilati's time at the brand. Contrary to initial appearances, the first sequence of volumatic, checked suiting is relatively light, using woven horsehair to create the fine, tensile structure of upholstery. Jackets, tops and dresses are based around the principle of aprons, with menswear elements of braces and straps balanced against the sweetness of the tie-backs and bows. The overriding violet emblem was worked into beautiful organdy applique on shirts and dresses as well as fashioned (by Lesage) from crushed sequins to embellish this evening gilet. As reported last night, such technical innovation was combined with homage, particularly in the psychadellic prints with panne velvet applique, which Pilati says was inspired by the peace activists of the 1970s and are his attempt to situate these luxurious clothes in the current world climate.
By Penny Martin, 23:26 Thu 05 Oct 2006
Video clip via phone:
By Penny Martin, 23:23 Thu 05 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
By Penny Martin, 23:17 Thu 05 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
Pilati paid a very respectful homage to his predecessor in tonight's collection, which gave more than a nod to Saint Laurent's work of the late 60s and early 70s. Down a catwalk planted with little violet flowers, the (very high-heeled) models picked their way, wearing versions of the famous transparent shirt, some fantastic flowery gowns and -yes, really- harem pants. It's a new, softer silhouette, yes, but there's little doubt that the YSL faithful will gladly learn to wear it.
By Penny Martin, 19:27 Thu 05 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
Laura and I may confect ways to mention Stefano Pilati at any possible opportunity, but the truth is we're actually YSL virgins, having never previously scored a ticket. But tonight, Matthew, at the Grand Palais, we're in! Yipee!
By Laura Bradley, 18:56 Thu 05 Oct 2006
First of all, let me apologise for the poor quality image - hindered by numerous obstructions (particularly a rude man next to me), I struggled to capture anything half decent to pictorially depict what designer Christian Wijnants paraded through the narrow passageways of the Ecole Nationale Superieure earlier this evening. Slightly less voluminous than last season, the Belgian designer continued to please, contentrating his award-winning skills (Hyeres 2001) on metallic shift dresses, delicate knitwear pieces and the layering of contrasting weightless fabrics.
By Penny Martin, 17:13 Thu 05 Oct 2006
Fresh from his Givenchy show last night!
By Laura Bradley, 16:27 Thu 05 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
A fluoro pink invitation and an army of press representatives sporting dresses in an indentical shade, set the tone of Peter Dundas' S/S '07 collection for Emanuel Ungaro: a highly charged extravaganza incorporating voluminous dresses in electric neon shades, heavily embelished sequin blazers, skinny-fit trousers with corset-tie fastenings, gaudy printed mini dresses, lipstick and butterfly motifs and one particularly outrageous polka-dot feather creation. What better way to kick-start my end of week visit?
By Penny Martin, 14:10 Thu 05 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
By Penny Martin, 13:43 Thu 05 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
This morning Stella McCartney sent out a -highly saleable- collection of short, voluminous and light dresses, some signature tailoring and even some airy romper suits I recall from my youth. Well, teens. The big story was the special edition of Roger Hargreaves' Mister Men books upon which Hargreaves' family have collaborated with the designer. Called 'Little Miss Stella' it tells the tale of a little girl who felt like a nobody until Stella came along and designed a dress for her. Then she was a somebody!
By Penny Martin, 18:40 Wed 04 Oct 2006
Video clip via phone:
Listen to Hussein Chalayan explain to a gaggle of enthralled fashion journalists the origins of his wearable technology. Like the wonderful scene in Blythe Spirit, each piece shifted from one fashion epoch to another -a long flapper dress rose into a short, Cardin shift, say- using computer hardware sewn into the corsets!
By Laura Bradley, 18:30 Wed 04 Oct 2006
Now that Hussein Chalayan's S/S '07 'One Hundred and Eleven Collection' -incorporating showpieces from jewellery designer FLorian and a rather spectacular finalé- has been unveiled to the press and those who tuned into the special web-screening, we can now launch a specially created film courtesy of Swarovski. Documenting the entire technical and design working process, the twenty-minute film reveals the fascinating realisation of those hand-constructed mechnical dresses including the original two-dimensional and three-dimensional drawings, the creation of toiles, the fitting of the electronic workings and initial tests, the fiddly attachment of thousands of Swarovski crystals, the production of the collection at the designer's London studio as well as fascinating explanatory discussion from the man himself.
NB The link will take you to a streaming QuickTime movie which requires a fast connection.
By Penny Martin, 18:26 Wed 04 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
For this final piece in Hussein Chalayan's extraordinary sequence of computer-animated clothing, a full-length dress ascended into a picture hat, and then descended as a cloud of Swarovski crystal dust! Coming to you in a 'moments in fashion history' book soon... Amazing!
By Laura Bradley, 17:00 Wed 04 Oct 2006
Click here to link to the Swarovski site to see Hussein Chalayan's S/S'07 collection entitled 'One Hundred and Eleven', live from the Palais omnisport de Paris Bercy during Paris Fashion Week. Our woman in Paris -Penny Martin- has just sent us this image of the invitation on route to the show, which is running slightly late...
By Penny Martin, 16:48 Wed 04 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
So bright was Thierry Dreyfuss' lighting for Sophia Kokosalaki's hard-edged, Panos Yiapanis-styled show this morning (russet silks and some fantastic pleating, as one might expect) that any image turned into a white blur. Instead, then, feast your eyes on the invite. We salute your foil blocking on tissue Ms Kokosalaki!
By Studio, 16:00 Wed 04 Oct 2006
We are extremely excited to announce that we will be linking to the Swarovski site later on at 17:00 UK TIME, who are screening Hussein Chalayan's S/S '07 show live from Paris (we have it on good authority that he is planning something rather spectacular)! We also have a special extra 'something' for you straight after the show. Stay tuned...
You will need Windows Media Player to view the show.
By Penny Martin, 14:32 Wed 04 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
Consider this my 'Mainbocher Corset'...
By Penny Martin, 14:09 Wed 04 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
Marios has himself a rather fine Paris showroom with rococco trappings galore. All that fanciful frilliness is quite a contrast to the supremely pared down modernity of his clothes. I was interested to hear that the mind-boggling construction of his hexagonal, patchwork dresses that stand away from the body was an attempt to meet any criticism of his body conscious design approach.
By Penny Martin, 13:08 Wed 04 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
A sort of Thomas Demand for fashion, Tao's delightful wedding-inspired collection centred around these intricate showpieces, fabricated entirely out of paper.
By Penny Martin, 10:18 Wed 04 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
By Penny Martin, 20:16 Tue 03 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
A show of two halves: the first a sequence of nubby, baggy, grey, Chanel-style suits with chain detail (as seen at Balenciaga this morning, apparently) and the second a group of mushroom, sugar pink and sage Grecian dresses with metal hoop detail (as at Chris Kane, in fact). Lucy Ewing, who is travelling with us, tells me it's a very pared down version of the Couture. Even Galliano's entrance was grey, sombre and subdued. Like last Dior S/S, a complete departure from what went before.
By Penny Martin, 12:36 Tue 03 Oct 2006
Video clip via phone:
Now, I make no claims for the cinematography, but I did once promise you a film of Vivienne's famous lap of honour!
By Penny Martin, 12:34 Tue 03 Oct 2006
Video clip via phone:
By Penny Martin, 12:31 Tue 03 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
The 'on-trend' aspects were all there: the riot of colour, the tassles, the metallic fabrics, sky-high heels in which a model fell not once but twice, the ballgowns. But what was notable at Vivienne Westwood's show that's just finished at the Louvre was that this all felt like her territory anyway. With the dress-up energy coming out of London (whatever you think of the club kids) it very much felt like Westwood's moment. And she brought on her longstanding muse Sarah Stockbridge to share the glory.
By Penny Martin, 06:49 Tue 03 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
I'd love to give you a crit of what *appeared* to be a moving show. But in truth, the raked seating at the Grand Amphitheatre de la Sorbonne meant the models were like specks of dust on the horizon. Great soundtrack of Elvis ballads, though, and I hear there were lacy knickers!
By Penny Martin, 19:23 Mon 02 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
Jun Takahashi just fired off every fashion reference in the book for his excellent A/W show. To a knowing Nouvelle Vague soundtrack of cover versions, the inspired Japanese designer referenced everyone from YSL (past and present), Chanel, Lanvin, Madame Gres, Margiela and doubtless others. Only for a designer as dark and maverick as Takahashi could this chic, sexy, polished and Bourgeois collection constitute a sincere and subversive statement.
By Penny Martin, 17:50 Mon 02 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
By Penny Martin, 17:00 Mon 02 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
Comme des Garcons' was beautiful but difficult to grasp. All I could think throughout was 'I'm not getting it!', until lo, the deconstructed tailoring, tattered ballerinas, Japanese flag emblems and 'against nature' slogans all integrated into this beautiful rising sun finale.
By Penny Martin, 14:39 Mon 02 Oct 2006
Video clip via phone:
By Penny Martin, 14:21 Mon 02 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
With the launch of the Dutch duo's new fragrance -'Antidote'- this week, it was inevitable that we were set for an archetypal V&R extravaganza. Kit-Kat club-style tables flanking the Carousel du Louvre's runway suggested a bit of interwar glamour and the crystal chandeliers held the clue to which patron of fashion design might be supporting it: Swarovski. The collection itself was a dancehall reworking of all the key V&R staples- the sexy trench, the tuxedo tops, blouses with fancy cuff details. But there were also some ballroom-inspired elements: the star emblems, flesh-toned bodystockings (as at Margiela, as Forum regular Detlev noticed) and tassled fringing. Viktor & Rolf's brilliance is in explicitly referencing all the flagrantly commercial elements of the fashion industry (the press-hogging spectacles, the 'selling' collections, the scent) and deftly distilling them into an oh-so-clever statement about the current state of fashion, as if they weren't actually complicit in it. A bit like reading anti-capitalist pulp literature, it flatters the audience's ego into feeling rather intellectual about what is principally entertainment. Hugely enjoyable at that.
By Penny Martin, 11:30 Mon 02 Oct 2006
Video clip via phone:
It's been whispered that Martin Margiela spent more time than ever before honing last night's collection. See for yourself in this (slightly psychadellic) video of their grand finale.
By Penny Martin, 11:21 Mon 02 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
The hair at Junya Watanabe -by Japanese hair stylist Kamo- is always a real highlight of the show. This morning, yards of blonde were looped through latex and piled high to create a sort of 'Futurist Edwardian' look. Lace was also used to embellish heavy, pointed shoes.
By Penny Martin, 11:12 Mon 02 Oct 2006
Image via phone:
Junya Watanabe is wonderful for a pedant like me, since his collections always focus on a single idea, which is subtly repeated and built up through his (early morning) shows. Today, what seemed to start as a showcase of his visceral, radical tailoring -with a late Victorian silhouette rendered in stiff, dark denim with a woven brocadey design- actually morphed into a progressive study of fabrics. Once the stock shapes were established (little jackets with nipped in waists and a gathered, bustle effect below, dynamic trenches, s-shaped skirts, skinny trousers) the density of the denim and brocades with plasticised trims soon gave way to lace and then white cottons which, despite being cut to the same patterns, behaved completely differently on the body. A gradual shift from constricting the body towards airy, even frilly lightness, then, this coherent collection every bit deserved its roaring applause.
NB: Check out Tokyo Style Clash judge, Sarah Colette, on the front row!
By Penny Martin, 20:14 Sun 01 Oct 2006
A great start to the week at Maison Margiela with a non-stop run of fan-pleasing looks that women are still going to want to wear. Their news is the new, graphic silhouette with structured shoulders, sinuous lines over the hip and long, long legs that either bundled up at the ankle or created trailing trains. Capes, stars and beads were other -perhaps less attention demanding- emblems but devotees are going to love the 'half unpeeled' tailoring, these fishnet shawl dresses (great tip for a masked ball, anyone?) and the shoes with plexiglass heels. Me? Loved all of it.
By Penny Martin, 19:53 Sun 01 Oct 2006
Imitation of Christ's Tara Subkoff and Purple's Olivier Zahm hunker down for the first night of Paris Fashion Week.
