Revelling at Revillion
Designer Peter Dundas has been quietly beavering away at the establishment heart of Paris for over three seasons as design head of Revillion furs. Taking their presentations back to rather marvellous basics (a theme of the week if ever there was one), Revillion showed in the grand old sense, taking over a hotel particular in close to the Paris Opera for a series of tiny, single-room presentations. What better way, after all, to see such intricately, painstakingly worked pieces? Before the show, Dundas explained that the theme was, quite simply, Hip Hop. But this was haute hip hop, crafted with Revillion's unrivalled knowledge and expertise. What may have seemed overblown in a large presentation was afforded the true luxury of time and close examination by the twenty or so spectators crammed into every presentation: strips of fur were intricately knitted to give pieces a weightlessness, while more substantial coats were patchworked in big-cat or fatigue patterns in khakis or rococo shades of lilac, oyster and rose-beige. These jackets had a clever trick, going from hip-length to waist-length chubby with the flick of a zipped peplum. Dundas himself welcomed the change in pace, especially after his ball-busting debut for Emilio Pucci earlier this year. 'You can speak to the editors and really explain what you wanted to achieve' he said as he sat with audience members pre-show to talk about the clothes we were about to see (sometimes, the debunking of fashion's cloak and dagger secrecy is a welcome change!). But with a clear, concise and conveniently-timed message like Dundas', little explanation is really needed.