Yves Saint Laurent Showroom
It's always wonderful when seeing the clothes up close and personal surpasses the spectacle of the catwalk, and Stefano Pilati's wonderful, wearable new YSL collection was even better in flesh. Flesh, of course, was a big story - those opening leather looks, reminiscent of the blouson noir of Monsieur Saint Laurent's 1960 'Beat' collection, made a powerful statement even off the catwalk. Interestingly, the raised detail on some of those leather pockets and across the topstitched seams of that basic little black leather bodysuit were created by an insertion of chain, a motif picked up by leather-swathed chain necklaces and bracelets. The suits were stunning, crafted from basic grey flannel with minimal but surgically precise seaming and a rigorous attention to detail. That Saint Laurent shoulder I espoused last night? All cut, no padding, so everything felt and looked as slight, light and delicate as possible. The whole collection seemed sturdy, starchy but ultimately weightless - apart from those hefty brieze-block wedges that could easily double as offensive weaponry and kept everything resolutely down-to-earth.