Don't miss Judy Blame, best dressed in pink, in the front row as you enjoy the envigorating Dead Kennedys soundtrack! The show was followed by an extraordinarily good party at The Connaught that was far too enjoyable to take pictures...
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Having never shown before in London, where else would Marc Jacobs showcase his diffusion line of checked wool, brief outerwear and lots and lots of fur than the ballroom of the most quintessentially English hotel, Claridges?
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Also showing at MAN was -Simon Foxton's tip- Aitor Throup, who put on an intriguing static presentation. A great candidate for 'process' deconstruction, his work starts with a drawing, which he then develops into a gestural macquette, for which he then creates an outfit. All three stages were laid out on the floor, under two dressed mannequins hanging from strings like swinging corpses.
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Siv Stodal was the stand out for me in this evening's Top Shop menswear showcase, 'MAN'. The stylist Thom Murphy made characteristically poetic work of Siv's 'boys on the farm' aesthetic and there was a well considered, animated graphic backdrop to boot. The depicted look was one of a final sequence of wonderous oilskin capes than can be clipped together and used as a tent. So convince your friends to all buy one and you can go on a fashionable night out and then all camp out!
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Jens Laugesen marked his return to London Fashion Week earlier today with a distinctly slower paced show -models were sent one at time down the catwalk in his signature style androgynous pieces. Inspired by the Danish painter Wilhelm Hammershoj, garments had a nineteenth century twist: often high necked with a ruffle collar and an accentuated waistline or corseting -in mix of wool, silk tulle and cashmere.
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The St Martins MA fashion course is known for launching success stories including Peter Jensen, Christopher Kane and Ann-Sofie Back -hence why the crowds turned out in force this morning at The British Fashion Council tent to see the fresh talent of this year's 19 graduates. The showcase opened in neons (yes, more!) before exploring other concepts such as clever pleating -as pictured here- by Mattijs Van Bergen.
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The walk through.
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The audience were wowed by a quivering reworking of Deacon's hit 'carwash' dress: tonight all the pleated rosettes were joined up so the dress heaved and wafted as the model walked. But surely the favourite with the Oscar stylists has to be this dramatic beauty?
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But for this toast-of-the-town Designer of the Year, it's interesting to watch how he courts the celebrity market. Will this curvaceous, printed, fishtailed gown appeal to Kelly Osborne who, I noted on my way out, had a seat reserved further down. 'Phew!', I thought. What kind of small talk would I have made whilst listening to The Muppets as we waited for the show to start?
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Feathers were a recurrent theme throughout the collection, from Stephen Jones' magnificent hats or a bodice constructed from black and white quills, to the shoes, which were each encircled with these rather fancy plumes.
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Along with the entire Deacon family, I was treated to the best seat in the house at Giles' show this evening. Now that I've worked out how to operate this phone, this permitted better-than-usual photos, so bear with me. I have tons!
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The walk through.
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Transparency was the new addition to Gareth Pugh's steady diet of patent-trimmed trench coats, skin tight leggings and latex masks.
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As part of London Fashion Week, the On|Off schedule aims to bridge the gap between the designers showing on and off the schedule -Held at The Royal Academy of Arts, this afternoon's came courtesy of Gardem. Cited in the show notes, the collection was 'romantic and historic as ever', featuring silk and voile trains on dresses, layers of lace over tulle and sequin embellished tights.
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The collection started in all black before moving on to eclectic prints, such as the one above.
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Exhibiting a similar aesthetic to last season -railway workwear inspired S/S '07- Margaret Howell's habitually tailored silhouette was still very evident at her show this afternoon: manish slacks, cotton shirts and tulip dresses worn with grey tights and brogues. Her trademark simplicity, of which I am a fan, I felt didn't evoke much enthusiasm from the audience: I do however think this was mainly due to it being the penultimate day of fashion week!?
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Showing in The Floral Room of The Royal Opera House was Nicole Fahri's A/W 07 collection. Chunky knit leggings that stopped just below the knee were worn underneath tweed and fairisle coats (as pictured here) as well as with more lightweight satin dresses. Similar to last night's show at Eley Kishimoto, knee high socks teamed with heels and cropped trousers furthered the layered look.
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With the Japanese city of Kyoto and Star Wars cited as their inspiration, Eley Kishimoto showed a mix of Princess Leia inspired dresses with some very intelligent and experimental print design -an outer world theme of stars and the galaxy- all in a palette of blacks, blues and greys mixed with mustard, red and burnt orange. Key to the look was their clever layering of shapes and patterns: dresses teamed with skirts and fairisle socks over tights.
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Who was working on the Pauric Sweeny stand at the London Fashion Week exhibition? None other than Susie, our PSP Amaze Me winner, who despite returning home to complete her training is still helping out the team at Pauric Sweeny in both London and Paris.
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Aquascutum's mission has always been to provide stylish protection from the unpredictable British weather. During the first world war, the company developed a new -now legendary- 'trench' coat to keep the soldiers dry. For A/W 07-08 the soldier was the inspiration for the collection again: this time from the toy soldier in The Nutcracker. The clothes mainly in block colours of black, white or red, mustard and brown were embellished with plaited braids, fringing and metal buttons.
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I think Moet must have had me in mind when they designed their champagne bar for between-show recuperation: there are captioned historical fashion photographs to test your knowledge whilst you get quietly drunk and fill your boots with macaroons.
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Hamish Morrow showed an entirely black collection, also featuring the quilted fabrics, wrapped jackets and slightly monastic sensibility we have noted during the past few days. Whereas other London designers have aimed for a young audience in pursuit of a conceptual edge, however, Morrow's designs are targeted at a slightly older, more sophisticated audience who appreciate the luxurious fabrics and quieter elegance. There were a couple of twists though- the lace tops and the 'Addicted to Love' hair and make-up being my personal favourites.
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A recurrent trend of the London shows so far seems to be the ultra short crew neck dress as exemplified so far by Christopher Kane, Stinha-Stanic and most recently by Preen -on show this morning at Lords cricket ground. They continued their use of grey and camel with a dash of colour: this season -hot pink and burgundy.
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Down at the tents, Stephen Jones is showing off the virtuosity of his hand-beaded, hand-painted headwear (as seen in his splendid hats for the Dior Couture last month) in an Autumn/Winter collection based on the Himalayas, titled Shangri-la'.
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The final show of tonight -Julien Macdonald- was opened by none other than Miss Naomi Cambell. A similarly star studded front row watched as his staple items (spangly dresses and plenty of fur) strutted down the catwalk to tunes including 'Boogie Tonight' by Booty Love!
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Schwab continued to adorn his complex cut dresses with the addition of iridescent metal and Swarovski crystal -This season extending into accessories (the angular metal headbands were a favorite of mine) which completed the high glamour collection.
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There was a massive turn out for Marios Schwab- another of the young 'uns creating a buzz about London abroad. There were no major departures from his trademark, meticulously tailored mini dresses and flowing, diaphanous maxi ones. But this time they were characterised by an irridescent, petroleum sheen (as on these jewels and also on the headbands) that luxed up the simple fabrics.
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Earlier today Penny and I saw some serious modern power dressing from Sinha-Stanic. Body conscious silhouettes in a predominately black palette with super high S&M style patent platforms created an altogether slick, sharp look.
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Utilitarian fabrics such as heavy wool felt, textured neoprene and this rather show stopping nylon were key to the industrial theme that ran through Ann-Sofie Back's collection.
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A bit like Erwin Wurm's 'One Minute Sculptures' for the fashion world, Ann-Sofie Back's outfits were intended to look like ensembles that could have been put together in two minutes. Felt jackets were fixed in place with elastic straps and neoprene puffa skirts clung to the hips like spongy bandages.
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We'd heard a rumour that Christopher Kane's collection was inspired by the bit in Gone With The Wind where Scarlett has fallen on hard times and needs to use velvet curtains to make a dress in which to visit Rhett in prison to beg for money. And certainly, his short, structured, A-line dresses were big on panne velvet, as well as leather, Swarovski crystals and belts with heavy metallic hardware. They certainly weren't what you'd call pretty- the palette was dark (ruby red, racing green)- but they were romantic, if a touch hard (Rambo and Braveheart were cited as references in the show notes). They definitely had the telltale front of flashy, Glaswegian fashion!
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Suitably taking place in the Royal Horticultural Hall, Paul Smith's collection for A/W 07-08 exuded old English glamour, reminiscent of Evelyn Waugh's twenties novel, 'Vile Bodies'. Tailored staples in neutral tones sat alongside bright silk and chiffon drop waist dresses: all styled appropriately with strings of pearls and pinned up hair.
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The final show of the day came courtesy of Todd Lynn. He furthered his signature style of dark tailoring and casual deconstruction -this season adding light hearted undertones of pink and burgundy- as shown here by this rather serious faced model!
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Known for his part-fitted, part-billowing shirts of course, Richard Nicoll's Spring/Summer collection split his audience over its dominating polkadot theme. So what will they make of today's star motif, accessorised with worker hats? Any political readings end there, however, as they were offset with swingy fringing across the shoulders -a la Country & Western songstresses- synching corset belts and fushia tassels. Sounds a lot to take in I know, but it was well edited and coherent. I heard one PR outside saying it was Richard's best collection yet. But then, he was from Topshop, who are the host venue.
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As one of Demandi Lennard's stable, Henry Holland's 'House of Holland' U.shirts have been creating a bit of a stir in the press (you remember - Gareth and Giles wore reciprocal ones at their shows last season). Double bluffing any potential critics of the running gag, the 'One Trick Pony Colleczioni' show this afternoon stuck mainly to fashion insider jokes in Nu Rave colours. So Op Art were they that I could barely read them, but they were things like 'Wham, Bam, Thank You Stam', 'Let's Get Naked And Play Twister, Linda Evangelista' and 'I'm a Tossa For Coco Rocha'. And with that, the predictive texting on the SHOWstudio picture phone just learnt a new word...
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More predatory women, synthetic fabrics, graphic prints and plenty of attitude at Danielle Scutt.
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Princess Christine of Denmark was the -typically for Jensen- unlikely muse for his A/W collection. (You may know her from the Holbein portrait in the NPG). This fierce lady had the front to turn down Henry VIII, saying she'd have considered him if she'd 2 heads, so I was expecting a rather fierce show. But the effect was rather romantic, with the ballgowns fashioned from nylon, giving them swishy modernity against the tweeds and chainmail that rammed good the historical context.
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