Charles Anastase

Posted Saturday, 21st February '09 14:12

Hard times call for hard looks. That seems to be Autumn/Winter 2009's verdict so far, and naturally it raises questions as to what those labels built on purveying delicate, fragile femininity will do now the tide has turned. Charles Anastase, a label built on a naive and even doll-like visions of diminished torso, full skirt, teetering platforms and schoolgirl coat, addressed it in an interesting manner. He plunged all-out into grunge, complete with rock soundtrack, graffito-ed leather jackets and tattoo-covered boys (actually members of London punk group Gallows) appearing on his runway. The mood was good girl gone bad, the show opening with Sloane Ranger staples of ticking-striped blouses, quilted hunting jackets and cord coats with Geography teacher elbow patches, all including the Anastase trademarks of half-mast sleeves and high-slung Martingale belt. These look set to be the core of the collection that women will actually buy, as Anastase's grunge excursion left rather less to be desired. Lengths of chain wrapped around as belts, dirty-smeared and rope-strapped bodies and a rather distasteful print of the word 'Dementia' on cord-constrained hospital whites seem less likely. Telling, the shoes seemed to tell the whole story: chunky, clunky and covetable studded platforms. No doubt sales figures are subtly afoot.