
Direction and Editing: Adam Lieber
Creative Director: Christopher Raeburn
Cinematography: Benjamin Pritchard
Models: Jolyon Bexon and Thalia Warren
Music: Dark Captain Light Captain, "Jealous Enemies," Loaf
SHOWstudio: Describe your design philosophy
Raeburn Design: Everything has a reason’. Clothing is the initial point of judgment and contact for most people; we like to explore this twilight zone, often building layers and depth into an outfit or garment to be utilized at will by the wearer. A game of hide-and-seek of sexuality, strength, imagination and intelligence that allows the wearer’s physical representation to be at one with their state of mind.
How would you define your aesthetic?
Layered, feminine and functional. We look to silhouettes and details borne out of extreme-environments or function specific clothing, (such as militaria, cold-weather protection or sports equipment) as a direction for the modern 21st Century city-dweller. Our clothes often rejuvenate surplus materials and in doing so, re-interpret existing seams and features, creating a garment with history beyond it’s own. This pseudo-structured ?! method of fabric development keeps our collections fresh and suprising even to ourselves- we think it’s important not too get too safe in one environment; experiment, things can be fun. We love to integrate ‘passive features’, such as specific-use hidden pockets or a degree of adjustability, to enable the user to effortless adapt and interact with different environments and situations.
How would you describe your creative process?
Ha ha ha! Always fun, slightly reckless, often misdirected, optimistic, a constant fight for time, sometimes like a slow-motion punch up in an army jumble sale, full-throttle, thoughtful and considered although often instinctive. Tiring, exhilarating, conclusive and yet desperate for more. Increasingly open and trusting, experimental, testing, engaging, thought-provoking, questioning. Life affirming at times I suspect- increasingly clearer I hope. And always set to a good soundtrack.
Last Updated Wednesday, 6 August, 2008
If the best way to predict the future is to invent it, the next best is to give it a helping hand. With this idea in mind, SHOWstudio launches the ‘Future Tense,’ film season, offering a global platform for an exciting new generation of fashion design to use the medium of moving image to express their creativity.
Our previous explorations of fashion film focussed on the garment in motion, the power of the editor and the relationship between fashion and politics: however, we have never given designers the simple brief to produce films exploring their own creative ethos. With online luxury advertising ever-expanding into new realms of digital media and young designers increasingly aware of their power as a brand, we have looked to twenty-first century fashion stars to express their design vision through moving image. In collaboration with Hywel Davies, whose forthcoming book 100 New Fashion Designers informed our selection, we have approached a wide variety of designers including Pierre Hardy, Rodarte, Peter Jensen, Lutz, Todd Lynn and Henrik Vibskov, to create films of between 30 seconds and three minutes. From 18 August and 18 September 2008, this selection of film will be showcased on SHOWstudio, allowing each participating designer the opportunity to express their individual aesthetic and identity. New films will be added to the project daily, the whole forming a concise encyclopaedia of fashion’s future.
But ‘Future Tense’ is more than a collection of film shorts. A Q&A with each participating designer will feature alongside their video piece, delving into their design ethos and working methods. The programme also showcases essays and features from the next batch of influential young fashion writers, exploring the themes raised by the designers' films and bearing witness to the incontrovertible shift towards moving fashion
Last Updated Wednesday, 24 September, 2008
''Glamour's Changing' by Daryoush Haj-Najafi
The unfortunate side-effect of concluding our Future Tense project during London Fashion Week is that some of our contributions were inevitably delayed by the hectic demands of the press junket. Daryoush Haj-Najafi's essay 'Glamour's Changing' is a case in point - but it was definitely worth the wait. Dissecting the modern glamour and overriding sense of positivity evident in the work of the Future tense designers, Haj-Najafi's piece is an apt post-script to an exciting, inventive and exhaustive (in more ways than one) look at a new generation of fashion stars.
By SHOWstudio, 18:00 Wednesday, 24 September, 2008
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Last Updated Wednesday, 6 August, 2008
Concept: Hywel Davies and Penny Martin
Direction: Alexander Fury and Penny Martin
Project Design: Paul Bruty
Technical Development: Dorian Moore
Editorial Assistance: Olivia Marks and Felice McDowell
Q&A text taken from the book '100 New Fashion Designers' by Hywel Davies, published by Laurence King
Thanks to Hywel Davies, Lewis Gill, Virginia Norris, Janine Pires, Alice Sheriff, Jay Lowdon and all at Diesel