
Direction: Marcus Werner Hed
Styling: Naomi Itkes
Model: Nike at Elite
Thanks to Johan von Reybekiel, Peter and Suzanne at Stångarö Gård
SHOWstudio: How would you define your aesthetic?
Sandra Backlund: My clothes are often sculptural, but I also put a lot of time into the finish and fit. I like to consciously dress and undress parts of the body; I am really fascinated by all the ways you can highlight, distort and transform the natural silhouette with clothes and accessories. I cannot stand the whole “what is in” and “what is not” conversation, and I do not design with the purpose to please everyone. People in general should be more self-governed when it comes to fashion.
How would you describe your creative approach?
With the human body and traditional handicraft techniques as the main starting point, I improvise to discover ideas of shapes and silhouettes that I could never come to think about in my head. I do not sketch, instead I work with a three dimensional collage method where I develop some simple bricks that I multiply and attach to each other until they become a garment. I allow myself to loose control and try to be aware of any mistakes and ideas along the way that can bring me beyond what I knew before. One garment breeds the next one and in the end the collection is like a three dimensional mind map.
What is the most challenging aspect of design?
I don’t like the way mass production, mass consumption and making fast and big money is poisoning modern fashion, but I don’t think it is possible to solve anything by just being rebellious. You need to focus more on how to exploit both the positive and negative aspects in a creative way to get somewhere. In the beginning it is also important to try not to worry so much about what other people might expect from you and instead spend a lot of time experimenting on your own to find out what you like and what you are good at. I think that many concentrate too hard on just living up to the image of being a new fashion designer, instead of actually working as one.
Last Updated Wednesday, 6 August, 2008
If the best way to predict the future is to invent it, the next best is to give it a helping hand. With this idea in mind, SHOWstudio launches the ‘Future Tense,’ film season, offering a global platform for an exciting new generation of fashion design to use the medium of moving image to express their creativity.
Our previous explorations of fashion film focussed on the garment in motion, the power of the editor and the relationship between fashion and politics: however, we have never given designers the simple brief to produce films exploring their own creative ethos. With online luxury advertising ever-expanding into new realms of digital media and young designers increasingly aware of their power as a brand, we have looked to twenty-first century fashion stars to express their design vision through moving image. In collaboration with Hywel Davies, whose forthcoming book 100 New Fashion Designers informed our selection, we have approached a wide variety of designers including Pierre Hardy, Rodarte, Peter Jensen, Lutz, Todd Lynn and Henrik Vibskov, to create films of between 30 seconds and three minutes. From 18 August and 18 September 2008, this selection of film will be showcased on SHOWstudio, allowing each participating designer the opportunity to express their individual aesthetic and identity. New films will be added to the project daily, the whole forming a concise encyclopaedia of fashion’s future.
But ‘Future Tense’ is more than a collection of film shorts. A Q&A with each participating designer will feature alongside their video piece, delving into their design ethos and working methods. The programme also showcases essays and features from the next batch of influential young fashion writers, exploring the themes raised by the designers' films and bearing witness to the incontrovertible shift towards moving fashion
Last Updated Wednesday, 24 September, 2008
''Glamour's Changing' by Daryoush Haj-Najafi
The unfortunate side-effect of concluding our Future Tense project during London Fashion Week is that some of our contributions were inevitably delayed by the hectic demands of the press junket. Daryoush Haj-Najafi's essay 'Glamour's Changing' is a case in point - but it was definitely worth the wait. Dissecting the modern glamour and overriding sense of positivity evident in the work of the Future tense designers, Haj-Najafi's piece is an apt post-script to an exciting, inventive and exhaustive (in more ways than one) look at a new generation of fashion stars.
By SHOWstudio, 18:00 Wednesday, 24 September, 2008
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Last Updated Wednesday, 6 August, 2008
Concept: Hywel Davies and Penny Martin
Direction: Alexander Fury and Penny Martin
Project Design: Paul Bruty
Technical Development: Dorian Moore
Editorial Assistance: Olivia Marks and Felice McDowell
Q&A text taken from the book '100 New Fashion Designers' by Hywel Davies, published by Laurence King
Thanks to Hywel Davies, Lewis Gill, Virginia Norris, Janine Pires, Alice Sheriff, Jay Lowdon and all at Diesel