Bernhard Willhelm
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Bernhard Willhelm
In complete contrast with last season's 'Men in Tights' collection, this time around Willhelm looked to historical costume and specifically Elizabethan England for inspiration. Doublets, jerkens and knitted stockings all referenced the square silhouette that defined the era. But did Willhelm modernise the concept? Apart from the addition of pockets... [more]
Raf Simons
THERES A CRACK IN EVERYTHING THATS HOW THE LIGHT GETS IN. This is the slogan that defined Simons's spring collection that was light years ahead. Futuristic cutting and a space age in feel, the clothes confirmed why Simons is so highly regarded in fashion circles. A palette of black and... [more]
Raf Simons
Raf Simons invites the fashion press to Lycee Buffon, a beautiful school on Boulevard Pasteur. The show is perched on a top floor walk-way surrounding a court yard that has a graphic art work by Simons. [more]
Armand Basi
Designer Joseph Abril has breathed new life into Armand Basi, as his youthful direction is widening the appeal of the brand. His work is not ground-breaking but his use of light fabrics is stronger than last season, and more suitable to a summer collection. The minimal and fresh collection produced... [more]
Ann Demeulemeester
Continuing her relaxed and romantic collection from last season, Demeulemeester delivered another successful presentation. In a palette of black, beige and white, the clothes were loose and etheral. Soft tailoring and textured fabrics were a key element to the clothes. Older models were utilised to present the garments, as worn... [more]
Tillman Lauterbach
Inspired by a trip to Ethiopia, Lauterbach's collection was inspired by lost identity. A minimalist feeling, wide jackets were made of linen and silk and the overall proportion was loose. Layers of new fabric covered old to create a contrast and in doing so communicated a vintage aesthetic that... [more]
Attachment
Heavy fabrics, dark colours did not equate a successful summer collection from Attachment. The overall focus of the presentation was on fabric manipulation and texture, which felt heavy and out of sync of the rest of the collections shown during the week. [more]
Miharaya Yasuhiro
Inspired by Joseph Beuys, Yasuhiro looked to the artist's wardrobe of a felt hat, canvas fishing jacket and jeans. The result was a collection that had a washed out and worn in atmosphere. A soft silhouette of modern pieces was sensitive and practical. Accessories inspired by the artist lightened the... [more]
Maison Martin Margiela
A human size traditional lookbook from Margiela. Twenty outfits from the 10 and 14 collections, represented a softer approach to the silhouette. Geometric details and pastels made the collection feel less hard that usual. An inventive and innovative approach to presentations, is what defines Margiela's work and this confirmed him... [more]
John Galliano
On fine form, Galliano presented a collection that travelled to Japan and India and then back to London. Brick Land Gents, Naked Civil Servants and Gurka Punks led the parade of intrepid characters. Vivid colour, print and texture are key to Galliano's menswear and were all here in abundance. Street... [more]
Comme des Garcons
In a striking contrast to the Junya show this morning, this Comme collection was effectively dramatic. The main crux of the show was how well can skirts work on men? In reality, not at all but Rei Kawakubo manages to make the most bizarre garments seem believable and almost covetable.... [more]