It's a shame that I didn't get round to answering this when it was first asked, as it will now seem like I am trying to defend us against all your criticisms (implied or otherwise). Which...I don't really have to do. I can't think of another editor that would have to come out in their own magazine and defend their editorial. Plus, SHOWstudio's free to view -no cover charge- and if you don't like it, you've not lost a penny!
But you FORUMsters have become important contributors to SHOWstudio yourselves and as such, deserve some respect and an answer (that is, those of you who respect that by allowing you to post whatever you like on our 'front cover', as it were, we are offering up our prime space and taking quite a risk). Also, it's a pleasure to participate in a thread about the work, for a change.
So if you allow me to try and wade through the above and get to the nub, is your question 'why Gareth?' Well, before I tackle such a question, please try and see it from our position: we have asked a creative who is heavily, heavily in demand (with scant resources I might add) to give us a month of his precious time, gratis. So out of respect to his considerable contribution, I should say that it is against my better judgement that I will discuss a valued contributor personally.
So, for hopefully the last time on this matter, I will say:
I stand by the work of all the contributors who we have asked to create work uniquely for us on SHOWstudio 100%, Gareth Pugh included. Ask yourselves whether you would be demanding to know 'why McQueen, why Emin or why Vivienne Westwood?' Those are all people whose aesthetic was contested at the start of their careers and are now associated with a well-publicised lifestyle as much as their work. Is your issue, therefore, more 'why an "untested" designer at the start of their career?'
Given its non-print nature, SHOWstudio is the ideal place for Gareth's work. His design is inextricably bound up with issues of performance and movement, which are key to our live, motion-image remit. There are really only a few designers at present who are capable of/interested in staging the 'spectacles' we are perhaps most interested in fashion (as evinced by the generally rather lacklustre catwalk presentations of the past 5 years, some obvious abberations notwithstanding). In that sense, Gareth's shows (which we will soon post) are a real breath of fresh air to the schedule and rich material for a company like ours.
Whether you personally enjoy or would want to wear his 'neo-punk Baroque' aesthetic (or whatever) or if you approve of the parties he throws is really not the issue here. It might be if we were a magazine and all we did was document/report things that happen outside ourselves, but the most important thing about SHOWstudio is the success of the collaborative, live performance work since that is what is genuinely new about what we are doing. You're right, it's only one small scene in London, but it's hardly our agenda to go chasing subcultures (would that we had the resources!). We would gladly represent other international ones, but only if they were related to a genuinely interesting designer or artist at their centre.
That a young designer like Gareth is prepared to go out on such an extreme (though considered) limb when the industry around him is so stultifyingly homogenised and conservative at the moment is a godsend and we would be fools not to take the opportunity to celebrate this unusual moment with him on SHOWstudio. Of course giving over such a precious platform to a designer at the beginning of their career is a risk if all you are interested in is building a faultless collection of 'definitive' designers' work. But that's the job of a museum collection, not a living project like SHOWstudio. Equally, I think an argument that could be legitimately levelled at us is that in the past, we have only given over this amount of space to tried-and-tested, establishment figures. We can't on one hand say we're experimental and not take a punt on something from time to time because it's fun and potentially ephemeral. What else is fashion?