An interesting quote from an article in yesterdays guardian about June Newton, wife of Helmut:

June's photographs have an intimacy that Helmut's lack, a difference which is obvious when you look at their parallel portraits of famous people side by side...

"I can never photograph anybody without the regard in the eyes," she says, trying to describe the connection she makes with her sitters. "You will never see a regard in anybody's eyes in Helmut's pictures. You will only see the eyes. He wasn't interested in people."

but that is only one version of glamour and I would argue that there are plenty more. there can be vivacious, sensual and humorous kinds that do not all choose to disengage themselves icily from the viewing audience. in fact a lot of the fashion imagery from the sixties (twiggy, bardot, i'm no expert on this) explored the whole doe-eyed aesthetic of the ingenue. This froideur you refer to is something that revisits fashion photography a lot, yes, but is not necessarily the governing look. I can only think of blondie (though I may be totally off here) as a sort of bridge point because at the same time as being all cute and ingenuous-looking, she was also quite aloof and made herself seem unattainable. possibly a pre-cursor to a lot of the uber-bitch-glamour of the eighties?

and then there's edie sedgwick of course but i'm waiting for sienna to clear that one up for me (how sad). and i also found this. what the fuck is this? is it a fraud?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVRmt0J6JNg&search=edie%20sedgwick

anybody seen ANNA MAY WONG in the film piccadily?she seems to sum up the whole essence in that film.