Unfortunately no photo, as it doesn't do to be too conspicuous about these things, but this afternoon, I was invited down to Vogue's 'Size Zero Models' debate. Can't disclose much, of course, as it's going to form the basis of a forthcoming feature. But it's always an interesting moment when fashion is forced to come out and defend itself over the issue of body image...
Despite the fact that fashion is always held to account for all manner of societal ills by the right wing press, the point this time is that the specific aesthetic associated with Size 0 (UK size 4) hasn't been created by fashion: the incredible shrunken woman with her oversized accessories is a Hollywood/US TV confection that you rarely see referenced in a fashion magazine. What's interesting is where the whole 'too fat/too thin' pantomime is now being played out. Previously the preserve of the right wing press, the cover-selling discussion has now been hi-jacked by the weekly magazines (Heat/Closer), the success of which means that it is increasingly feeding into the glossy magazines that are trying to emulate the weeklies' tabloid-style mode of address. This particular topic is like proverbial kimet to them: a constant opportunity to print pictures of scantily clad models and celebrities.
For me, the whole topic about the health of fashion models -as distinct from celebrities- which seems to get tacked onto the Size 0 debate is a red herring. Of course we should be working in an industry that protects their workers (I'm from Scotland: I'm pro-unionisation and a hearty diet!!). Naturally, we should applaud Milan Fashion Week coming out and saying that models under the age of 16 and under a BMI of 18 can't work. What's to argue about? But you can't on one hand argue that fashion image-making is guilty of putting unrepresentative imagery in young women's heads -i.e. level criticism about the representation of fashion and then cite examples of malnutrition among models as proof (as terrible as those two awful examples of death-by-catwalk are). That's another arguement: about the production of fashion.
On the matter of representation, then, what's so dispiriting about the focus on the Size 0's and the WAGs is what utterly dismal personalities they are (as role models and as visual icons) and how limited our world of fashion imagery has become as a result of their overexposure. With fewer and fewer photographers shooting the campaigns and such little variety between the models we see, we're in a sea of bland. Camille Paglia's point about fashion being a 'triumph of conceptualisation' as opposed to a reflection of reality begs the question of whether we are looking for fashion to be forced to reflect the mundane and ordinary -us- or to offer us something -and importantly, someone- extraordinary to look at and aspire to?
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