Hello SHOWstudio, I just popped in here for the first time in ages and noticed the ‘Boned’ project had been updated. Seeing the final edit of stills from the shoot after following some of the live coverage online is brilliant! But the accompanying text seems so brief (pun not intended) as to be at least misleading if not actually inaccurate?
This is just the first three lines: “In their comprehensive history of underwear, dress historians C. Willet and P. Cunnington noted ‘man has never used provocative underclothing; its plain prose has been singular in contrast to the poetic allurements worn by women. Unlike women’s underwear, men’s undergarments have always been utilitarian, chosen for their sanitary and protective qualities. As a result, men’s underwear has not been considered with the same attention as women’s.”
But according to wiki (although alternative theories of the origin of the codpiece exist), it was “an important item of European clothing in the 15th and 16th centuries. At first, the codpiece was entirely a practical matter of modesty. Men's hose (leg coverings) were typically very snug on the legs and open at the crotch, with the genitalia simply hanging loose under the doublet. As changing fashions led to shorter doublets, the codpiece was created to cover the crotch. As time passed, codpieces were shaped to emphasize the male genitalia and eventually often became padded and bizarrely shaped. They also often doubled as pockets, handy carrying places for a variety of items such as coins and snuff. In the latter half of Queen Elizabeth I's reign, the codpiece and doublet merged into the "peascod" doublet, and the codpiece faded from fashion.”
This is hardly a plain, unprovocative garment.
So, while it’s obvious from the styling (with one possible exception) and style of imagery that it wouldn’t have been appropriate for Nick Knight’s magazine shoot, it does seem odd that it should have been ignored in the text. Which raises some interesting questions – is the codpiece a fashion taboo? If so why, when it’s now evidently acceptable to tastefully depict erections à la Mapplethorpe? And why hasn’t this project elicited more discussion (or have I just not spotted it yet)?
Actually, I found some images that probably illustrate why the codpiece is such a no-no, but I’m not sure if I should post them…