SHOWstudio

Discuss Projects

Comment on or discuss SHOWstudio projects

BONED

Showing messages 1–8 of 8

Another Man magazine invited Nick Knight to photograph a men’s underwear story for Issue 5 in collaboration with menswear stylist Alister Mackie. The shoot took inspiration from the classic black and white studio photography of Horst P. Horst and Robert Mapplethorpe, but its modern twist was to reinterpret this disciplined vision in colour imagery. A modern response to memorable representations of the male form, then, Boned broadcasted live with behind-the-scenes glimpses from hair and make-up and what happened backstage on the 31st May and 1st of June. These film clips are also joined by an edit of the film footage by Ruth Hogben, an essay on mens underwear past and present by Shaun Cole and a gallery of the resultant stills.

View this project >

Reply to this >



i don't know about anybody else but i feel the film is more compelling and more evocative than the stills.It seems to open up the world that is being proposed here in a more accomplished way and the vision in the film is more interesting.
Any thoughts...

Reply to this >



Hello SHOWstudio, I just popped in here for the first time in ages and noticed the ‘Boned’ project had been updated. Seeing the final edit of stills from the shoot after following some of the live coverage online is brilliant! But the accompanying text seems so brief (pun not intended) as to be at least misleading if not actually inaccurate?

This is just the first three lines: “In their comprehensive history of underwear, dress historians C. Willet and P. Cunnington noted ‘man has never used provocative underclothing; its plain prose has been singular in contrast to the poetic allurements worn by women. Unlike women’s underwear, men’s undergarments have always been utilitarian, chosen for their sanitary and protective qualities. As a result, men’s underwear has not been considered with the same attention as women’s.”

But according to wiki (although alternative theories of the origin of the codpiece exist), it was “an important item of European clothing in the 15th and 16th centuries. At first, the codpiece was entirely a practical matter of modesty. Men's hose (leg coverings) were typically very snug on the legs and open at the crotch, with the genitalia simply hanging loose under the doublet. As changing fashions led to shorter doublets, the codpiece was created to cover the crotch. As time passed, codpieces were shaped to emphasize the male genitalia and eventually often became padded and bizarrely shaped. They also often doubled as pockets, handy carrying places for a variety of items such as coins and snuff. In the latter half of Queen Elizabeth I's reign, the codpiece and doublet merged into the "peascod" doublet, and the codpiece faded from fashion.”

This is hardly a plain, unprovocative garment.

So, while it’s obvious from the styling (with one possible exception) and style of imagery that it wouldn’t have been appropriate for Nick Knight’s magazine shoot, it does seem odd that it should have been ignored in the text. Which raises some interesting questions – is the codpiece a fashion taboo? If so why, when it’s now evidently acceptable to tastefully depict erections à la Mapplethorpe? And why hasn’t this project elicited more discussion (or have I just not spotted it yet)?

Actually, I found some images that probably illustrate why the codpiece is such a no-no, but I’m not sure if I should post them…

Reply to this >



Chris Summerfield
Chris Summerfield
United Kingdom
In reply to f:lux:

Its nice to have you back Flux after all this time.
I trust that all is well with you

Reply to this >



Galileo's Universe
Galileo's Universe
Greenland

Great Post ...f : lux!....and indeed why hasn't it ! ...? :):):)

Reply to this >



maria n
maria n
United Kingdom
In reply to Galileo's Universe:

hey it is nice to see you back, but less of the catch up and back to boned!

I liked the mix of studio lighting and day light in the film. It creats a sence of time, like your on a journy with the modle. sensitive and sensual.

Reply to this >



Galileo's Universe
Galileo's Universe
Greenland

f:lux.....

I'm posting an interesting article about Angelo Bronzenoze, a Medici painter who was obcessed with the codpiece and curious enough had his own insight and interpretation/ meaning... about the codpiece and the wearer....using fish as a kind of language about the wearer....naturally he was doomed never to sell his paintings but interesting reading nevertheless ...:):)!

'' Although Bronzenoze exhibited an excellent technique in his early years, his fixation with fish soon proved his undoing. He insisted that the then-popular "language of flowers" could be applied to fish, which could be used make the also-then-popular codpiece convey a flirtatious innuendo in his paintings.

For example, to Bronzenoze the basic cod carried the symbolic message, "I'm a predatory bottom-feeder, baby," while the mackerelpiece indicated the more subtle, "Long and limber with lots of silver." The grouperpiece indicated a penchant for multiple partners, while the solepiece represented fidelity, and the remorapiece a touch of dependency. The damselfishpiece indicated homosexuality, the sardinepiece modesty and the carppiece sensitivity to criticism. The eel was not shown at all, for obvious reasons, and the blowfish only as a prank.

One curious double meaning was Bronzenoze's use of the squidpiece. Worn intact it suggested that the bearer was unusually well endowed; yet it was also the mark of the court eunuch when it was worn without the tentacles.

Unable to sell any of his unusual paintings, and scorned by the art world, Bronzenoze eked out a miserable living as a fishmonger's assistant until one day, overcome with despair, he threw himself into a barrel of imported barracuda and perished. ''
--------------------------

Reply to this >



the insertion into the film of the oddly kitsch but nevertheless poetic rose shots adds a odd camp 1950s sexuality which benefits the overall proposal. It takes me into a scenario that the photographs somehow don't attain.
I agree with maria n about transporting one to a sense of a different time.

Reply to this >



Showing messages 1–8 of 8


You must Log-in to post a message to this thread.

SHOWstudio © 2009 Terms & Conditions