Lutz

Posted 1st October 2009 00:00 BY Laura Bradley

Held in a disused multi-storey car-park in the 3rd arrondissement, Lutz's show for Spring/Summer was based around the 'movements of garments in the air', set to a whistling wind soundtrack. A somewhat abstract starting point which saw Lutz Hüller work with soft fluid shapes, draping at the front or belting swathes of fabric with simple belt-ties in a muted palette of white, black, navy and cream. A monochromatic print, suggesting refelected sun light, featured in four of the looks. There were also tailored pieces - clever re-workings of the classic shirt, blazer and trench coat with dramatic darts and knife pleats. Lutz certainly hammered home that 'windswept' idea but in reality, the copious amount of fabric and lack of a definitive silhouette lost him points. Luckily, the occasional slashing and tearing of delicate fabrics, will help the label slot into what appears to be one of the key stories of the season, promoted by numerous designers including Jil Sander and Gareth Pugh. Here, strategic slits featured diagonally across the body, over the neckline or down one side of a dress, as well as hole-punched panels. The soft fluid shapes were given a much-needed harder edge with the addition of large silver studs, oversized hook and eye fasteners and utilitarian clips used as pendants on ribbon necklaces or belt fasteners. Lutz also debuted a series of darted, black leather bags worn over the shoulder and folded clutches, with a chain and worn as a necklace or tied around the waist.