Gareth Pugh

Posted 30th September 2009 00:00 BY Laura Bradley

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Feted for his use of black and white, Gareth Pugh surprised his audience by sending out a 35-piece men's and women's collection, in shades of grey. The only flash of colour came in the dusty lilac hair pieces worked into plaits. The colour palette wasn't the only change, with Pugh choosing this moment to debut decidedly softer, fluid designs. The big story last season was his choice to present his collection solely through the medium of film; he continued his commitment to moving image, presenting a cube film installation during New York fashion week, enabling him to introduce four central themes (fire, earth, wind and water). In the runway show, these ideas came to beautiful fruition, incorporating long belted dresses, sharp tailored jackets, high-neck chainmail pieces, delicate cobweb knits, a slashed hooded coat and striking mohawk headwear. Pugh reaffirmed his talent in producing looks suitable for both sexes with a series of soft leather jackets with zip details and skintight leggings. Some of the menswear was markedly more feminine than the women's with the inclusion of a corset and chiffon skirts with slits. Ghostly romantic, the collection still bore Pugh's well-established gothic, hard aesthetic - graphic lines juxtaposed with long liquid panels and the extensive use of zips, most successfully in a triangle formation along the neckline. The triangle patchwork design favoured by Pugh, made a reappearance, this time in soft, grey suede. The subtle details were most effective, namely the occasional nude panel and the double collars for men. As well offering numerous editorial opportunities, much of the polished, well-executed collection will no doubt appeal to those all-important buyers. This is Pugh's eighth season (his third in Paris) and it was exhilarating to see him take his brand to the next level.