So, with the dust settling on another season, the overriding question is, as always, 'What am I going to wear?' After soaking up all London and Paris had to offer, and casting a sideways glance at New York and Milan, here are our observations, from excess and extraterrestrials to prehistory and minimalism, of what the Spring/Summer 2009 has in store in our handy round-up of the shows.
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I think the notion of escape is directly related to the economic situation. If you look back to the end of the eighties and start of the nineties, during the last major recession, there were all these extreme, excessive fashions - the origins of the supermodel, that whole excessive Versace moment, and the baroque extremeties of Vivienne Westwood's 'Portrait', 'Cut, Slash and Pull' and 'Dressing Up' collections.
What is interesting for me is that, at the moment, there are two parallel movements. The major names seem to be avoiding the harsh reality of the economic situation and offering fantasia, while the smaller (specifically London) designers are offering more realistic vision than we have ever seen from them. They know that they need to sell to survive. Even then, however, this season it has been coupled into almost childish fantasies of outer-space, cavemen and princes and princesses.
But, who doesn't want to escape the everyday? That's what fashion is always about. It isn't likely to change.
By Alex Fury at 18:37 Thu 09 Oct 2008 | reply to this >
it is probably true that a lot of the designers would have sourced their collections 3 months ago when the financial chaos we are in now would not have been so obvious.
It however makes me wonder how some of those hedge funders are feeling now with their Damien Hirsts.
By la at 08:19 Fri 10 Oct 2008 | reply to this >
The 'direction' of the collections and shows may well have been defined three months prior- as influences; life tells’, societies requests and reactions to previous hemlines dictate.
However a complete economic slow down surely has the same hints and sign-posts. Maybe not in the form of colour transitions and the need to renovate; but the depth of line on many a bankers visage, suggests more than a three month period of growth- or lack of it.
Maybe these designers didn’t have the statements from the Icelandic banks- but what if they did?
What do we suggest? Clothes made from Hessian and used second class stamps? Dresses that, like transformers- and the dancing cars in the adverts, convert into solid- tangible houses- ‘just in case the worse happens’? Why should the collections mourn for our losses...
Shows are the 'theatre' of the desiners- bring on the fantasy I say.
Otherwise the aforementioned influences; creative, visual, personal and extreme- would be outlawed for the world’s day to day events. We’d see prints with overlapping ‘Tesco’ vs. ‘Sainsbury’s’ slogans...
Models dripping down the catwalks- speaking with Gloucestershire accents.....
To think that the slim, clean lines seen at Stella McCartney for example, could have been a direct reaction to Gok Wan’s over use of the belt- visually screaming from the box most evenings? Just an idea..
Perhaps additional Scottish political coverage on the telly- forged the way for this season’s over use of tartan...
By lillyjane at 15:02 Fri 10 Oct 2008 | reply to this >
The art market is heavily fueled by hedgefund buyers. The larger more classical auctions might still be supported by some overseas buyers in these times of crisis but for the artists who were "hot" with the hedgefund crowd/billionaire fund managers etc like DAMIEN HIRST and Prince, Koons etc prices will drop without a doubt.. They are suddenly in big trouble, fashion designers must be facing similar problems given how drastic the economic situation really is now
By dromedary at 16:59 Fri 10 Oct 2008 | reply to this >
quite the opposite is happening..the price of gold is rising meteoricaly..if you cant get gold then buy artwork..hirst etc
peoples faith in the value of houses has been lost for a while..an investment in quality is always a good option..
By shaw at 17:01 Mon 13 Oct 2008 | reply to this >
CREDIT PIC. Manish Arora by Sonny Vandevelde for Diane a Shade View of Fashion
http://dianepernet.typepad.com/diane/archives.html
QOUTE: " What role does fashion have in these troubled times? Should it spin fantasies or shatter dreams? "
Definitely it is the moment to SPIN FANTASIES ! ... our ' New World Order ' seems to be killing everything ..... literally ... so let's not allow 'THEM' kill our innate human sense of true creativity and hope because without hope ... there is no future !
To THINK POSITIVE is without doubt the right direction ... the right ENERGY !
By Galileo's Universe at 09:46 Mon 13 Oct 2008 | reply to this >
Christopher Kane is a large inspiration to myself as an apprentice Fashion design student. Throughout my studies of his work, I have been endlessly blown away by his ability to incorporate endless innovation into his collections and pieces. Also, I feel as though the criteria and trend of the 2009 Spring/Summer Paris Fashion Week was more about an Avant Guard’ perspective. The fact that Christopher Kane is so young also ad’s to his appeal to me, I think he is truly talented. How is there a miss understanding about the point of his collection, the inspiration was not vague. The inspiration was blunt and there is not to many ways to confuse tunics, togas, and a natural color palette. Kane's spring 2009 collection incorporated all of these basics, and still maintains an interesting and refined approach. The collection portrayed rugged undertones with class. My comment is simply that I love Christopher Kane and I think his work is always outstanding and include much finesse.
By lysergi884 at 22:59 Mon 13 Oct 2008 | reply to this >
its always great to have the main themes from the all the shows and fashion weeks summed up clearly and intelligently - Alex's SS09 Round-Up does just that. Also it is interesting to think that we are going through a major economic crisis when none of the amazing fashion designs you mention/refer to seem to reflect any recession worries...
By Andrea G at 15:35 Thu 09 Oct 2008 | reply to this >