Ann-Sofie Back

By Andrew Gow, 01:01 Tue 18 Sep 2007

Back's new shoulder

Back's shadey cape

Hard and pink

Some interesting proposals at Ann-Sofie Back’s show this evening: a new rectilinear shoulder that is constructed as a vertical ridge from a padded-out armscye - the latter in evidence in some of Deryck Walker’s structured shirts this afternoon. While some thought it reminiscent of Margiela, structurally there was very little similarity. Back’s new solution for the pant fly was innovative and sexy: an improvised gathering of fabric folded coarsely to one side dipping the waistline to reveal a flash of abdomen.

Waistbands, necklines and shoulder straps were padded out with volumised facings and elbow pads found their way into gloves and nude leggings. All the pads and folds were not so much used decoratively as to create nodes of the silhouette. Gauze dome capes rested like cheese cloches down to the midriff and of course, then there were the sunglass lens tops which picked up the light magnificently and look set to hold their own in any editorial.