Gareth Pugh: great strides forward

By Penny Martin, 20:18 Sun 16 Sep 2007

Leather coat dress with chains from Gareth Pugh's S/S '08 collection

It's no news that Gareth Pugh has decided to address the 'but is it wearable clothing?' question: rather than merely continuing to make press-pleasing show pieces, he has enlisted the help of Rick Owens' partner Michele Lamy to also help build up his business. The whispers that have been circulating about 'so-so selling pieces' were silenced this afternoon with a sophisticated and mature collection containing some lovingly made separates from desirable fabrics that -gasp- might just make into a woman's wardrobe (albeit a slightly predatory one).

The motifs that Pugh has made his own were there: a cube-headed figure in black Swarovski crystal popped the red balloon ostructing the entrance to the catwalk to begin the catwalk procession, giving way to skin-tight mini dresses in leather (or was it latex?) and this rather lovely coatdress with chains on the side pocket. What was new was the focus on texture; from latticed crystal over glistening sheaths or shredded fur that streamed romantically out behind sleeves, to fringed leather or a cream, knitted pom-pom shrug that got its own round of applause.

The mere fact that these individual pieces can be described in remotely sartorial terms is an encouraging sign that Pugh's extreme aesthetic can be transformed into something saleable without compromising the vision for which photographers and magazines love him. Just ask his biggest clients: apparently it's bourgeois ladies and not club kids that go mad for his PVC macs!