The flawless and effortless catwalk statement of any designer, oddly enough, is carefully contrived to disguise any trace of the blood, sweat and tears behind the scenes that brought their vision to fruition. Unfortunately for Louise Goldin, she had us filming every moment of the months of extraordinary work that... [more]
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Eagle-eyed viewers may have noticed that SHOWstudio's trademark webcams (and the SHOWstudio staff) have been frozen in action for the past few days. No, we haven't been playing musical statues - this is all part and parcel of our imminent move to Mayfair, slated for this very Thursday. ... [more]
I'm not one to point the finger, but the proliferation of sculpted cocktail dresses, thigh-grazing hems and lashings of velvet on the catwalks for A/W 2009 could only make me think of Antony Price (and rumour has it more than one international taste-maker was dropping his name as a 'research... [more]
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Week by week, our latest film project continues to 'unravel' the months of painstaking and back-breaking labour behind the A/W 2009 collection of award-winning British knitwear wizard Louise Goldin. This week we examine Goldin's continuing and ever-evolving relationship with crystal company Swarovski, a long-term provider of creative and financial support... [more]
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Last night provided the opportunity to have a closer look at this year's Central Saint Martins MA Fashion graduate collections. Showcasing the work of 22 students, including the handful not selected for inclusion in the college's recent London Fashion Week show. For the past 18 months, each have been party... [more]
Following last Friday's Talking Fashion event with Giles Deacon at the Victoria and Albert Museum, we are proud to present our own film of the entire evening. Opening with a introduction by journalist and regular SHOWstudio contributor Hywel Davies and a highlights film incorporating archive footage from Giles' catwalk shows... [more]
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Founded in 2002, Birds Eye View is the UK's first major women's film festival. Recognising the growing medium of 'fashion film', the festival launched a fashion strand for the first time last year. Following its successful debut, this year's impressive 12-strong selection curated by Kathryn Ferguson, highlighted the sheer volume... [more]
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Shot in a Central London gym this short clip shows Nick and Sissel Tolass' continuing research into isolating the chemicals that are released into the body during an aggressive violent act. This is the first of many such tests so keep tuning in to the process blog over the next... [more]
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Roland Mouret's venue, the Musee de l'Homme, was frankly perfectly-placed for me to snap this endearingly picture-postcard shot of la Tour Eiffel before hot-footing it back to blighty on the Eurostar. Our Paris fashion week project has now been updated with my final report from Mouret's presentation, so the only... [more]
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Designer Peter Dundas has been quietly beavering away at the establishment heart of Paris for over three seasons as design head of Revillion furs. Taking their presentations back to rather marvellous basics (a theme of the week if ever there was one), Revillion showed in the grand old sense, taking... [more]
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Maybe Galliano has spent his set budget on the special effects? His Russian Ark of Romany gypsies are parading out in a purple halo of billowing snow. I mean, I know the venue is a bit chilly but this is ridiculous!
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We're finally in and the venue is... low-key, to say the least. Four rows of wooden seating, bare warehouse walls and only a black cloth for a catwalk. We can only wonder what's in store.
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We're clustered in close-to-zero temperatures outside Galliano's venue, but things are still heating up. Maybe it's the breakneck schedule, or the fact the show should have started ten minutes ago, but the photographers are kicking up a storm outside.
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I'm on my way to the penultimate show of our Paris fashion week, John Galliano, whose invite this season is a dinner-plate sized metallic silver disc etched with vaguely Oriental designs like a fretworked Moorish screen (or a rather exotic paper doily). Frankly fabulous, but a rather inconvenient ojet d'art... [more]
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Working backwards through the creation of Louise Goldin's Autumn/Winter 2009 collection, our fourth Unravelled installment focuses on the all-important process of collaboration. Having decided that leather would play an integral part in her designs, Louise approached London-based leather specialists Whitaker Malem. Feted for creating costumes for a whole host of... [more]
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Chris Moore and my good self have been working our fingers to the bone since the Alexander McQueen show ended not two hours ago, and our Paris fashion week project has now been updated with a full gallery of Chris' fabulous photographs and my review (and lo-fi real-time video) of... [more]
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...quite literally! Alexander McQueen's collection, titled 'The Horn of Plenty', will parade around this towering mound of steaming rubbish - all of it lovingly, and no doubt hygienically, recreated by the McQueen team.
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It's always wonderful when seeing the clothes up close and personal surpasses the spectacle of the catwalk, and Stefano Pilati's wonderful, wearable new YSL collection was even better in flesh. Flesh, of course, was a big story - those opening leather looks, reminiscent of the blouson noir of Monsieur Saint... [more]
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X really does mark the spot at Jean Paul Gaultier, and after Saturday's X-rated, XXX 'xtravaganza of an 'xhibition (yes, I am aware that is at least one witless pun too many) I was interested how the clothes looked close-up and personal. The quality was, of course, impeccable - bands... [more]
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Jean-Charles de Castelbajac's invitations are always a colour-crammed poster-sized summary of his Technicolor aesthetic. This one is splashed with Muppets and slightly Frenchified fifties do-wop lyrics. I'm apprehensive, to say the least, as to the level of good taste and restraint we're about to see. But it's all in the... [more]
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Here's my own wee homage to Stefano Pilati's tour de force showing for Yves Saint Laurent this evening: a truly wonderful way to finish today's coverage of the Paris shows. What's more, lucky me has a re-see rendezvous with that self-same collection booked for tomorrow morning!
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We've seen drapery all over the place this season, but maybe Viktor and Rolf are about to push it to the nth degree (dangerous preemption!) Suspiciously untarnished white classical statuary set a Greco-Roman mood at the head of their Autumn/Winter 2009 runway.
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Im never really sure what Stella McCartney's childish invites are meant to signify - other than a return to innocence and a lighthearted, frivolous joke that shouldn't have too much read into it. In itself, that's refreshing enough for fashion. This season, with her plastic yo-yo clutched firmly in hand,... [more]
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Frank Sinatra may love Paris even when it drizzles, but I can't help but wonder if he's been here when it pours - and with only a newspaper for cover. I was rather homesick at the truly Anglais downpour that slightly hampered my Paris jaunt today (five days in Paris... [more]
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Kaiser Karl is always at least two steps ahead of the game. While other designers are running-up last minute inspirational alterations to their final catwalk looks, Lagerfeld is so far in advance of even his up-to-the-next-minute self he's already shot his Autumn/Winter 2009 campaign images. Not only that, he furnishes... [more]
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Having fully updated all the day's antics in our Paris Fashion Week project, I leave you with one of my favourite images from this frantic and frenetic fourth day: Jean-Paul Gaultier's dirt-splattered catwalk following his screaming, hair-pulling mud-wrestling catfight finale to the tune of 'Relax'. You couldn't make it up,... [more]
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Jean-Paul Gaultier's distinctly pro-pelt stance has never been shy or retiring: maybe that's why he gets the full force of PETA each end every season. The audience, meanwhile are herded like cattle into the venue by the most brusque of security cadres.
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This bright, white illuminated sculpture marks the head of Sophia's catwalk. portents of frocks to come? Only she knows...
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For those of you bemoaning the absence of me in our signature SHOWstudio video blogs this Paris Fashion Week I can only apologise but at the moment I am decidedly under the weather. Fret not, help is at hand (literally) in the form of Ann Demeulemeester's printed linen handkerchief invite.... [more]
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Or rather, the 4am(!) hour, as I was somewhat tardy on dotting my i's and crossing my t's in today's jammed schedule. I'm off to get some shut-eye before Haider Ackermann, but our Paris Fashion Week project has been fully updated with reports on all our shows today. Enjoy!
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Whilst the other half of our editorial team is out reporting at the Paris shows, I was over at the V&A tonight to watch Giles Deacon in conversation with journalist and regular SHOWstudio contributor Hywel Davies. This is arguably one of the busiest periods during the fashion calendar for... [more]
Sinister arc lighting, an all black venue and intense, brain-boggling clothes. It can only be Maison Martin Margiela.
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And under a bower of roses too!
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There wasn't even any fur in Westwood's show (none that I noticed anyway) but PETA were out in full force picketing the venue. Perhaps it is the oft fur-swaddled audience members who roused them this season?
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Sadly, the Espace Eiffel it seems is no more - but today, Vivienne Westwood's show gives the more touristy of us (a.k.a. me) the chance to gawk at another great Paris landmark, la Place Vendome. This is the first of a veritable flurry of formula-one shows this afternoon/evening: next is... [more]
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Our ardent Twitter followers may have noticed that, although I was 'Twittering' (and wittering) away from the AF Vandevorst show, the report didn't make it online last night. But take heart! It is now up in our Paris Fashion Week project for your perusal while I am busily preparing for... [more]
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At least, it is for me - but for the poor photographers, this is the somewhat gobsmacking eighth show of the day. Here, the ranks of snappers set up for the imminent start of Rick Owens' Autumn/Winter 2009 collection.
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Over the course of ten weeks, Unravelled will reveal every stage of the creation of Louise Goldin's recently unveiled Autumn/Winter collection. Running backwards through her working process, the series continues this week with the 'Run-Up', incorporating footage shot in the frantic 48-hours prior to her London Fashion Week show. Watch... [more]
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Our final show of the first day of Paris Fashion Week is Martine Sitbon's Rue du Mail. Named after the road where Sitbon's atelier is based, for Autumn/Winter Rue du Mail chooses to show intimately in-house. And in an unfamiliar city, at least there's no danger of mucking up the... [more]
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Click here to view film.
Now that all of Gareth Pugh's guests assembled at the Passage du Désir, we can now simultaneously unveil his Autumn/Winter 2009 collection, live on SHOWstudio. Eschewing the conventional runway presentation, Gareth has chosen to present his latest collection using the medium of film. Created in collaboration... [more]
Alex Fury is regularly posting short updates from Paris via the SHOWstudio Twitter. For up-to-the-minute Gareth Pugh news and more, sign up here.
So this is the invite for Gareth Pugh's show scheduled to take place in Paris at 17:00 (16:00 GMT)! Lucky SHOWstudio viewers won't require one of these as we are offering you the exclusive opportunity to see his Autumn/Winter 2009 collection from the comfort of your desk. True to form,... [more]
It's always nice to see a familiar face in a foreign place - especially when that place is Paris and the face is the alway-fabulous Diane Pernet of www.ashadedviewonfashion.com
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A rather dull image to start our Paris fashion week coverage, I'll give you that, but then again nothing much has happened yet. Bright-eyed and bushy-tailed from a 6am wake-up call (honestly) I'm plunging straight in at the deep end with today's first show - the eponymous womenswear line of... [more]
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Paris Fashion Week kicks off today and over the next nine days, we will be covering all of the action, live and direct from nearly 40+ shows. Continuing our commitment to be the first to deliver comprehensive show coverage, our fashion director Alex Fury will be filing his in-depth reports... [more]
We are pleased to announce that we will be offering our viewers the exclusive opportunity to watch Gareth Pugh's eagerly-awaited Autumn/Winter show, live on SHOWstudio tomorrow afternoon! Arguably one of the hottest tickets in town, we will be able to simultaneously show exactly what press and buyers will see at... [more]
