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TRANSMISSIONS: Glittering Ground

This evening versatile artist Roger Hiorns presents a specially commissioned performance work at Camden Arts Centre in London. Part of a series of events called 'Glittering Ground', Roger Hiorns' contribution is a performance that aims to "simultaneously attract and repel the viewer". SHOWstudio video assitant Anna Gudbrandsdottir is going... [more]

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Chanel by Benjamin Seroussi

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Having seen Naomi Campbell model the dress from the finalé of the Chanel Couture show last week, we thought you might like to see the rest of the collection. Given our ticket shortage, we couldn't pass up Benjamin Seroussi's kind offer of a quick edit of the 'guerilla footage' he... [more]

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NAOMI: Shoot Ended

With seven fashion shots and a still-life completed, the shoot has now ended. Naomi has gone off into the night, wearing the beautiful Couture boots gifted to her by Givenchy. Well, she looked damn fine in them and...that's what you get for asking nicely!

Don't forget: there is still a sculpture... [more]

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NAOMI: Very last shot

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NAOMI: Sam puts paid to the rumour that he's been hacking into Naomi's ha ir ruthlessly throughout the shoot

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NAOMI: Cellophane Finale

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NAOMI: A little singalong to Prince while Sam fixes the wig

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NAOMI: Naomi makes light work of Chanel

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NAOMI: Update - final few hours

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NAOMI: The Huddle

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At each hiatus during each shot, the whole team migrates to in front of the Polaroid board to discuss which is the best image so far. Here, Nick and Jonathan pore over the images with their corners and loupe.

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NAOMI: Straight onto Armani

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NAOMI: The Gaultier Gown

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Naomi holds a contortion for what seems like an insufferable length of time while Nick directs her.

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NAOMI: Jill gamely tries on the Gaultier halo


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NAOMI: New Arrivals

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Jonathan's assistant Jill shows us the clothes that arrived through the night.

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NAOMI: Day Two

We're just setting up for the second -and final- day of the shoot. The hair, make-up and styling teams are just awaiting Naomi's arrival.

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NAOMI: Finished for Today

That's it for tonight! The shoot will resume tomorrow, 30 January at 10:30hrs (UK time)

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NAOMI: Keeping at it

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'Good enough' is, well, just not good enough! So the team labour to get the definitive shot, using no less than 22 sheets of 10x8 Polaroid and 22 sheets of film to get the Valentino look.

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NAOMI: Naomi perfects her pose as we lose the skirt

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NAOMI: And for the final shot of the night...

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We have a little bit of laser-cut Valentino. So good Sam creeps in with his famous wind machine!

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NAOMI: And it's off!

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NAOMI: Christian Dior

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Our Lady starts off with the Hokusai 'Wave Dress' on...

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NAOMI: Between Shots

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Val Garland takes us through Naomi's make-up while Ms Campbell checks her Blackberry.

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NAOMI: Who's the hair stylist that can't stop horsing around?

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NAOMI: The man from Cartier's shown up with the rocks.


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NAOMI: Foot massage between takes

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It's a perk of the job!

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NAOMI: Michael works those Polaroids

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NAOMI: Jonathan straightens Naomi's Posy

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NAOMI: Riccardo Tisci's mermaid dress is unleashed!

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NAOMI: With the first shot in the bag, Nick Knight explains the game plan

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NAOMI: Many hands...

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Naomi's lent her iPod for a bit of a soundtrack.

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NAOMI: Manoeuvring the mighty 10x8 into place

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NAOMI: Finishing, primping touches

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Sam McKnight and Jonathan Kaye add the finishing touches to the Lacroix look.

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NAOMI: The Clothes

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NAOMI: Setting Up

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It's the first morning of our two-day shoot with Naomi Campbell and everyone is preparing for her arrival...

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NAOMI: Live Shoot Monday

Swan

On Monday our coverage of Couture week and ongoing collaboration with Naomi Campbell will come together ‘on set’ as Nick and Jonathan Kaye begin a two-day Couture shoot in partnership with V magazine starring the self-titled ‘Swan’ herself. We will, of course, be broadcasting the event live via webcam and... [more]

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TRANSMISSIONS: The Landsc Apes

In keeping with Penny's extensive Parisian reporting this week Transmissions brings you some French artists -one film-maker one musician- who collaborated to bring together a live soundtrack to an evocative film about youthful disturbances. Presented in the audotoriam of the top floor of Guy's Hospital in London late last year... [more]

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Good Lord!


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Travelling back on the Eurostar and leafing through the new Paris Vogue, just spotted the latest fashion photographer to 'do a Juergen/Terry' and publish a nude self-portrait. The question is: who will be next after Mario?!

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: On Boudicca's Shoulders


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They started with quite an 80s silhouette, with pronounced Montana-like shoulders, but this softened as the -brief at 10 minutes- show went on, into this more curvaceous, almost Edwardian outline.

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Boudicca


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Showing in the very chic Romanian embassy, Boudicca unveiled a very sharp and precise collection of trouser-suits and lace evening dresses. The fit was impeccable but in truth, it was hard to see the fabrics as it was very, very dark.

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Maison Martin Margiela tutorial: exclusive

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Listen to Patrick Scallon take us through the February Men's Travel Jacket.

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Shawl Dress for May


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The fabric is threaded through the beads to mould the shawl to the body.

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: April and May at Margiela


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Closest to us, you see the brilliant 'Oil Painting Dress', for which the house has washed three oil paintings to strip the canvas of its gesso, softened them and then pieced them together in this shift, carefully folding them to create a waist. Get a message to Cate: THIS is... [more]

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Maison Martin Margiela


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Here you are seeing the scene after the Margiela presentation, where a photographer is shooting the models behind apertures in a curved hall of mirrors. In a kind of museological tour, a cropped section of a model's body emerged from the darkness to reveal one of 24 garments in turn;... [more]

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Benjamin Seroussi


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Risking life and limb for SHOWstudio apparently, Benjamin took a video camera into the Chanel show on Tuesday. He popped by the hotel bar last night to show me the results of his quick little edit.

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Mmm, Cate looks interested in this one for her Babel acceptance speech


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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Armani Prive


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This was Giorgio Armani's biggest collection at close to 70 'exits'. There was glitzy sparkle and lustrous fabrics galore, but most of all, it seemed, there were these spiral dresses with asymmetrical hemlines.

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: On an Oscar Mission


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From left: ex Bondgirl Rosamund Pike, Cate Blanchet -who was flown in on the Armani jet especially- the Armani niece, whose name is possibly Natalia (?) and of course, friend of Giorgio, Katie. All wearing Armani Prive, naturally.

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Day III - Update

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Armani


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Yes, really: it's Katie Holmes!

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Finale Film

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The ecclesiastical music switched for the walk-through to -you guessed it- Madonna! Present only in spirit, however. Never mind: Posh Spice was there instead, no doubt hoping to mop up some of her reflected glory. I nearly photographed her for you, but I'm afraid the tats put me off and... [more]

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: More masks...


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This white lace dress came with an attached lace gimp mask: someone should tell Cantankerous! Such a great fit without being stretchy: brilliant.

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: All halo Gaultier!


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These amazing halos -each girl wore one (as seen with this 'bleeding heart dress') fashioned from metal, perspex, feathers and all manner of stuff- are going to be shot to pieces in the coming reason. I mean, who wouldn't look better for a little ray of light around the hairline?... [more]

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Dita's the bride (again)?


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There were so many angels floating around that as the dresses became more complex, I kept thinking we were witnessing the bride, who is traditionally the final 'exit' in a Couture show. At around 65k each, wedding dresses are key to keeping the industry afloat as they comprise a good... [more]

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Unmasked!


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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Golden Moment


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Once the model wearing this solid gold number descended the staircase onto the runway, she slid open the 'doors' of her mask to reveal her face.

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Dita's Like a Virgin


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Of course, the classic Gaultier trick is the visual pun: trompe L'Oeil, the trouser-dress or some such cheeky gag. In this afternoon's show, any jokes were played out in the staging, rather than the clothes themselves, which were as elegant and demure as the angels on which the collection's theme... [more]

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: The High Church of Jean Paul Gaultier

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: GAULTIER


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On arrival, each guest is given a slip with a district of Paris printed on it in exchange for their invite. This is a clever rouse: nobody knows how good their seats are before they get in and so can't make a fuss at the door (London PR Mandi Lennard... [more]

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Day III Update

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Givenchy finale

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Confirming his status as a designer conscious of spectacle above all else, Tisci had his model convene in a tableau behind glass (a little reminiscent of McQueen's 'Voss' come to think of it), which -with the streaming condensation on the inside of the glass and the models' languid poses- had... [more]

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Acres of chiffon, tulle and suede trailed in the muck to perfect the late 19th century silhouette


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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Givenchy


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After an initial section of tailoring- that looked a lot like Ready-to-Wear-
but then, I was a few rows from being able to see any perceptible detail, all Riccardo Tisci's attention turned to trains...

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Oil spills on damp concrete-it's just like the good old days at Givenchy!

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Christian Lacroix and his bride

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Little Lily inside!

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: I defy you not to like a polkadot, mind you...


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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Christian Lacroix


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Lacroix does two sittings and my ticket was for the latter so I wasn't sure what to make of my friends text to 'expect a nu rave show'. At Lacroix? Really?! The palette was pretty fluro, yes, and there was a smattering of techno crystal, as seen in this waspie... [more]

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Christian Lacroix


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Oh, the romance! I'd been told to expect a carnation on my seat when I got here. Apparently, they are to throw at Christian Lacroix at the end of the show. The programme notes say this -40th- collection is about 'scent of a woman'. That's the one where Al Pacino... [more]

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Day II: Update

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: There goes the bride...

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Final Walk-Through

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Amid a cherry blossom-like storm of tiny tissue butterflies, the models did their walk-through, before Galliano did his lap of honour, dressed as Mad King Ludwig II. You may remember him from Bjork's In Camera interview, in response to Michael Jackson's question. (Goodness me, how peculiar is my job?!) ANYWAY,... [more]

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Crysanthemum Bride


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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Calligraphy


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'Tradition and refinement versus savagery' he said: samurai warriors, crysanthemums and flower arranging and contemporary art were the central themes of the (legendary) research books.

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Techno fabrics


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Origami-like folding a key construction theme.

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Lessons in volume


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Of course, judging by the get-up of most of the c60-year-old clients sitting on the lacquered, black seats in the audience, it won't be garments like this delightful, poufy sack dress with rope motifs that will be the big sellers in the coming weeks. But such items demonstrate that Galliano... [more]

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Stephen Jones nearly stole the show with his fantastic hats!


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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Hand-dye coordination


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John (we're on first name terms since my visit last week...) described getting the diagonal graduation on the hand dying for this dress as like 'mathematics' when he showed me the research books from his preparatory research trip to Japan.

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Madame Butterfly: no tragedy!

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This film illustrates -in microcosm- what was clever about Galliano's ripping show this afternoon. Based on Madame Butterfly, each garment was a fusion of traditional Japanese dress -representing Cio-Cio San- and classical 50s Couture -standing for Major Pinkerton, without a full-blown kimono or tailored skirt suit in sight. There were... [more]

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Michael Howells sets the scene


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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Christian Dior


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It's quite a trek out here to the Dior venue in the Bois de Boulogne: a far cry from the central setting of the Tuilleries for the Ready-to-Wear.

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Couture Clients


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One thing you can say about Couture: the demographic and attire of the audience is certainly different from Ready-to-Wear!

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Ivana Trump gives her response to press


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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: Elie Saab


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Here comes the bride, concluding a collection of Roman toga-inspired draping and knife pleated sparkling tulle. In honesty, couldn't see much from the Gods and slightly distracted by all the plastic surgery on show in the audience!

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HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2007: A word from your guide...

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48 GIRLS: Project Launches

Created from footage captured during a marathon shoot for the September 2006 issue of Paris Vogue, Craig McDean’s film '48 Girls’ features forty-eight motion portraits of the most important models working today. From the ones you know of old -Karen Elson, Jessica Stam, Shalom and Gemma Ward- to the ones... [more]

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TRANSMISSIONS: Think, Think Thingamajig; what do you represent?

Think, Think Thingamajig; what do you represent? is a performative sculpture work by the Glasgow-based artists Joanne Tatham and Tom O'Sullivan. The Think Thingamajig is a cube decorated with pink diamonds painted on black, a design that has existed as the cover for a script and a ceramic sculpture in... [more]

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Going, going, gone!

Tonight Sharmin 'wondergirl' Nordien leaves the studio for the very last time. Our considerable loss is Digit's very great gain, for she will be taking up an exciting new post of Senior Project Manager there, as of Thursday.

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DIOR: now

Take a good look around: unless you have £25K+ to spend, this may be the first and last time you get a chance to see where the Haute Couture fittings are performed nowadays.

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DIOR: then

Just for you: exclusive snaps of Christian Dior's original workroom, views of the staircase at 30 Avenue Montaigne -the Maison Particulère (a prestigious building bigger than a regular town house) that Mr Dior chose for his HQ, positioned at the intersection between all the big Parisian hotels to capitalise on... [more]

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John Galliano

I was over at the venerable House of Christian Dior on behalf of Vogue Nippon last week, interviewing Monsieur Galliano about his forthcoming Haute Couture collection, to be shown in Paris this Monday. Ever faithful to you, dear SHOWstudio viewer, I managed to squeeze a Picture Phone tour of the... [more]

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'Amaze Me' Winner Update

You may remember the 'PSP Amaze Me' project. It enabled lucky prize winners the exclusive opportunity to work with the creative panelists they attempted to amaze. Susie Foxton was candidate picked by designer Pauric Sweeney and we have just received an email from her: her time in Florence has come... [more]

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FASH-OFF: Download

When Fred Butler dropped in to film her Twelve Days offering before Christmas she left us feeling doubly grateful when she presented us with a giant tomato. It was, in fact, her interpretation of Gareth Pugh's design_download brief which has since been photographed by our studio assistant, Anna Gudbrandsdottir and... [more]

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TWELVE DAYS: The 12th Day of Christmas

On the twelfth and final day of Christmas Gareth Pugh’s contribution completes our collection of films that make up the SHOWstudio ‘12 Days of Christmas’.

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TRANSMISSIONS: Some people I like because they don't talk a lot

In this helpful and jovial blog (spot) ICA bookshop manager and writer Russell Heron gets around to many openings and events you didn't make, large and small, around London. In this link he gives a nice description of a recent Martin Creed lecture/performance that sums up the artists' relationship to... [more]

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TRANSMISSIONS: Product shot: assume vivid astro focus

Christmas was kind to Transmissions this year with a suprise visit from esteemed cheapcream contributor assume vivid astro focus who hand delivered one of his new Le Sportsac creations designed for the classic sporty brand - their bumbags a beloved element of his Brazilian wardrobe during the eighties, we understand.... [more]

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TWELVE DAYS: The 11th Day of Christmas

Christopher Kane provides us with the penultimate piece of our collection of films to celebrate the 12 Days of Christmas. See how long it takes for you to guess the reference to a certain venerable fashion house!

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TWELVE DAYS: The 10th Day of Christmas

The festive mood continues with artistic input from Mike & Rebecca and their film contribution for the tenth day of Christmas!

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TWELVE DAYS: The 9th Day of Christmas

On the ninth day of Christmas see what Marios Schwab created for our ’12 Days of Christmas’ collection of films.

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TWELVE DAYS: The 8th Day of Christmas

Paul Bruty extends the festive celebrations into the New Year with his fashionable creation for the eighth day of Christmas.

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TWELVE DAYS: The 7th Day of Christmas

Giles Deacon lights up the seventh day of Christmas (and the New Year!) with his shimmering Swarovski contribution to the SHOWstudio ‘12 Days of Christmas’.

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