>Blog (3265)
By Laura Bradley, 16:30 Fri 31 Mar 2006
As part of the current 'Fashion-ology' exhibition, the Victoria and Albert Museum are hosting an 'In Conversation' between the legendary Piaggi and her close friend and milliner Stephen Jones. The event, sponsored by Topshop, begins at 7:30 tonight. Of course tickets sold in a record eight minutes so you will... [more]
By Penny Martin, 16:36 Thu 30 Mar 2006
Perhaps unsurprisingly, the most surreal and imaginative accessory of the Autumn/Winter '06-7 comes to you courtesy of Maison Martin Margiela. What looked like a straightforward picture frame slung around the models' necks at the Paris catwalk show, on closer attention revealed itself to be an elegant necklace at the... [more]
By Christabel Stewart, 11:49 Thu 30 Mar 2006
London’s beer sponsored art prize Beck's Futures exhibition opened this week at the ICA with a presentation of work by the thirteen short-listed artists. Olivia Plender’s 'The Road to Ruin (for Oyvind Fahlstrom)' particularly struck a cord for its material and ideological homage to the comic-strip, object installations of... [more]
By Paul Bruty, 14:56 Wed 29 Mar 2006
The first three of our EDITING FASHION Editors' Cuts are now in. CLICK HERE to view Mike Figgis, Anna Span and Apurva Asranis' final cut of Nick Knight's footage taken at the Spring/Summer '06 Galliano show. As well as encountering the unique interpretations of these contrasting artists you... [more]
By Laura Bradley, 17:15 Tue 28 Mar 2006
Visitors to the Paul Smith Press Day were treated to tea and Krispy Kreme Doughnuts as they perused the A/W ’06-7 ranges earlier today. His extensive womenswear collection – this season incorporating menswear-inspired front-pleated trousers, brogues and sharp-tailored skirts with heirloom-inspired knitwear and pussy-bow blouses– were displayed in a typically... [more]
By Christabel Stewart, 18:37 Mon 27 Mar 2006
The 4th Berlin Biennial 'Of Mice and Men' opened this weekend in Berlin's Mitte, concentrated up and down the single street Auguststrasse in order to explore its many histories through presentations in private apartments, historic ballrooms, dilapidated schools, churches and contemporary art spaces established and artist-run. Elsewhere in Berlin galleries... [more]
By Studio, 13:54 Mon 27 Mar 2006
It is with great regret that we announce the legendary photographer Bob Carlos Clarke has died aged 56. The British fashion, portrait and commercial photographer, best known for his high-profile advertising campaigns and his provocative images of women, was killed in an accident on 25 March 2006.
By Studio, 17:59 Tue 21 Mar 2006
This picture phone image has just arrived on my mobile, which signals that today's lookbook shoot for Philip Treacy's collection for UMBRO is drawing to a close. At a East End studio just around the corner from SHOW, photographer Jez Tozer has captured an impressive twenty looks in a single... [more]
By Christabel Stewart, 16:43 Fri 17 Mar 2006
This was the scene last Saturday at New York's hard-to-ignore Reena Spaulings Fine Art on Grand Street, an artist run space that avoids exact categorisation by embracing the many possibilities that it could be –commercial gallery, project space, or ever evolving collaborative artists project- and all under a false identity.... [more]
By Studio, 16:37 Fri 17 Mar 2006
Having merrily contributed probing questions to many an IN CAMERA web interview in the past -featuring contributors including Kate Moss, Alexander McQueen, David Bailey, Tracey Emin, Juergen Teller, Peter Saville and Vivienne Westwood- it seems only fair for Nick Knight to finally consent to being the subject of one of... [more]
By Christabel Stewart, 17:32 Mon 13 Mar 2006
New York University's Grey Gallery had a very interesting exhibition of art works and ephemera from a prescient decade in New York's art scene: 1974-1984. Documenting "The Downtown Scene", Carlo McCormick's endearing portrait included this original gallery signage for a pioneering alternative space in the Bronx called 'Fashion Moda'. Founded... [more]
By Christabel Stewart, 16:02 Mon 13 Mar 2006
Most of the eye-catching activity during New York's Armoury (art fair) weekend seemed to be happening outside of the two pier event, including this under-the-abandoned-railway lot show curated by Artforum's David Rimanelli. Works by a wide range of New York based artists old and young were hung or scattered in... [more]
By Christabel Stewart, 15:31 Fri 10 Mar 2006
Marking the entranceway of this year’s American Whitney Biennial, “Day for Night”, which openened recently in New York, Aaron Young’s “LOCALS ONLY!” –a bronze ‘rock’- marks out its territory and points gloomily to America’s escalating climate of suspicion and fear.
By Christabel Stewart, 23:20 Thu 09 Mar 2006
Explore Peter Saville's influential exhibition 'Estate' at Zurich's Migros Museum though the eyes and lens of film-maker Marcus Werner Hed, and the voice of Saville himself in a clever split screen device. Humorously anecdotal and formally informative this is a real treat for Saville fans.
By Laura Bradley, 14:26 Thu 09 Mar 2006
We’ve just been notified that SHOWstudio contributor Ebru Ercon has launched her A/W ’06-7 collection online. The first in a series of explorations in which the designer will use a different group of women to inspire a specific garment, the starting point for A/W ’06-7 is her signature T-shirt dresses... [more]
By Laura Bradley, 13:17 Wed 08 Mar 2006
Following our former Editor, Alice Rawsthorn’s untimely departure, we were curious to see the last of her grand projects at The Design Museum, the Designer of the Year exhibition that was opened on Friday night. Short-listed by a panel including last year’s controversial winner Hilary Cottam, contenders for the 2006... [more]
By Studio, 17:29 Tue 07 Mar 2006
We have just received our copy of the latest Visionaire. Number 48 - ‘Magic’, features a SHOWstudio contribution to the collection of 25 ‘moving’ lenticular images. You’ll recognise the image of Liberty Ross from last year's Dress Me Up, Dress Me Down project, as it’s conjured up from one... [more]
By Studio, 16:54 Tue 07 Mar 2006
Greg Perler, a Californian-based animation editor, today joins our panel of guest editors with his very own PROCESS SECTION. As well as his stellar biography, the page includes an iChat converstaion between Greg and our Project Co-ordinator, Sharmin Nordien. As well as discussing how he plans to approach the footage,... [more]
By Paul Bruty, 17:38 Mon 06 Mar 2006
Fourteen new movie contributions have been added to the EDITING FASHION Viewer's Cut Gallery today.
By Penny Martin, 23:45 Sun 05 Mar 2006
It was all a matter of scale at Alber Elbaz's Autumn/Winter Lanvin show this evening, which concludes my week of Paris shows. Emerging from a giant doorway erected in the splendid Opera Comique, the models looked like tiny Alices, hardly reaching keyhole height in fashion wonderland. As at Balenciaga, there... [more]
By Penny Martin, 14:47 Sun 05 Mar 2006
After four weeks of shows featuring mostly black clothes, Tao's pale pink, lilac and tea-coloured silks, old white lace frills and papal purple tie-dye introduced lightness and gentility into a what is destined to be pretty heavy season all round.
By Penny Martin, 13:40 Sun 05 Mar 2006
A complete departure from the overt sexuality and sheer camp of his Spring/Summer collection, John Galliano's Autumn/Winter depicted a far more subtle femininity last night. With their crimped, long, red hair, battered pioneer hats, worker caps and open-tongued boots, the styling of these women was straight out of Haight Ashbury,... [more]
By Penny Martin, 11:16 Sun 05 Mar 2006
Jean Paul Gaultier's equestrian-themed show (cue lots of 'behind the scenes at the gymkhana' shoots this Autumn) had an additional sporting dimension. Besides all the riding hats and crops, there was a beautiful satin fabric featuring tiny fencing scenes that jumped out of this collection of the finest leatherware, capes... [more]
By Penny Martin, 07:29 Sun 05 Mar 2006
The extraordinarly lavish rooms of La Sorbonne was the setting for Comme des Garcons' hugely enjoyable Autumn/Winter '06-7 yesterday. Ostensibly based on 'persona -what you choose to project and conceal' according to the helpful Comme staff, Kawakubo's collection was a witty play on gender: for the most part, elements of... [more]
By Penny Martin, 07:11 Sun 05 Mar 2006
Having never been to a Kenzo show before, I'd been warned about the sets. But I wasn't expecting anything of this proportion from Antonio Marras' (Princess Turandot-inspired) presentation in which a huge paper lantern opened up to reveal the full collection in a Ziegfeld Follies-style finalé.
By Studio, 18:30 Sat 04 Mar 2006
Those of you awaiting Jens Laugesen’s A/W ’06-7 collection can now sit back, relax and enjoy the exclusive screening of MAY.
By Penny Martin, 17:10 Sat 04 Mar 2006
After last season's punk macs and mohican head dresses, the audience was expecting a sweeter, more feminine show from Junya Watanabe: especially when a bar of Sonata in C slipped out immediatly prior to the show's start this morning. But no, the Japanese designer's collection was just as confrontational, with... [more]
By Penny Martin, 07:48 Sat 04 Mar 2006
A romantic invite bearing a Gaelic inscription translating as 'the widows of Culloden' forecast that last night's Alexander McQueen show was to be a political statement. Both in terms of the industry who saw it and world climate that informed it. Rumours that the British designer is increasingly frustrated by... [more]
By Penny Martin, 06:34 Sat 04 Mar 2006
Last night's evening of optical tricks kicked off with a delightful presentation and a highly coherent collection from Maison Martin Margiela. Displayed on revolving turntables divided into three sections by mirrored planes in a rotor shape -of which only the front half was exposed to the audience- women appeared for... [more]
By Studio, 00:00 Sat 04 Mar 2006
We are pleased to host an exclusive presentation of FUTURE NOW 02:MAY: a showcase of fashion designer Jens Laugesen’s collection for the forthcoming A/W ’06 -7 season. The film entitled ‘MAY’ will be screened live on SHOWstudio in tandem with a film presentation tonight (18:30 UK time) in Paris... [more]
By Penny Martin, 19:54 Fri 03 Mar 2006
At the climax of Alexander McQueen’s show tonight, the lights went down to reveal a modern reworking of a nineteenth century optical illusion: Pepper’s Ghost. An illusion used by fairground hucksters and pierside attractions, these were pre-film entertainments that used ‘smoke and mirrors’ to amaze and in some cases terrify... [more]
By Penny Martin, 17:24 Fri 03 Mar 2006
How many fashion editors ripped open their witty invites to tonight's forthcoming Maison Martin Margeila show and thought for one beautiful moment that their discount card had come through at last?!
By Penny Martin, 15:44 Fri 03 Mar 2006
Be advised: my picture does no justice to the phenomenal collection we saw at the Yves Saint Laurent showroom today. The curvaceous silhouettes of these clever, bourgeois clothes are composed from the Stefano Pilati shapes we know and love, love, love. The tulip skirt; the short, round shouldered jacket with... [more]
By Penny Martin, 13:15 Fri 03 Mar 2006
Bumped into the sardonic Mathias Augustyniak from M/M (Paris), the designer/artist duo that is responsible for the graphic identity and creative direction of Vèronique Leroy's brand, as well as creating advertising campaigns for Stella McCartney. He too was musing over how curious it is that VL hasn't reached prominence sooner.... [more]
By Penny Martin, 00:38 Fri 03 Mar 2006
It's a sure fire sign that a designer is increasing in importance when leading figures join their 'show team'. Tonight, perhaps the most innovative figure in contemporary make-up, Peter Phillips, appeared on Veronique Leroy's show credits, joining key heavyweight hair stylist Marc Lopez and musical co-ordinator Michel Gaubert in staging... [more]
By Penny Martin, 22:13 Thu 02 Mar 2006
Only on the Paris schedule for the first time, Antwerp designer Christian Wijnants got a roaring applause for his collection of diaphanous capes and innocent, airy dresses. Considering the recent enthusiasm for 'off gesture' portraiture and movement in fashion photography above all else, you'll doubtless be seeing them in editorial... [more]
By Penny Martin, 15:31 Thu 02 Mar 2006
William Clark from Minneapolis, and all those of you who featured the footage of Gemma Ward in your Viewers' Cut shorts for Editing Fashion will feel your ears burning this afternoon! In between dealing with photographers vying for portraits (myself included), the Australian model said she hadn't seen the films... [more]
By Penny Martin, 13:23 Thu 02 Mar 2006
There is nothing more impressive than a craftsman prepared to divulge his trade secrets, so it was utterly charming to be given a lesson in couture methods from shoe-maker-to-everyone Pierre Hardy. He was a little embarrassed, however, to name the construction process of these positively pneumatic shoes. To create their... [more]
By Penny Martin, 11:53 Thu 02 Mar 2006
And would Carine Roitfeld, glamourpuss Editrice of French Vogue please consider posing for SHOWstudio whilst waiting for Stella McCartney's show to start? "Oui, oui, of corse! Any seeen for Neek Knight!"
By Penny Martin, 22:29 Wed 01 Mar 2006
This shaky snapshot represents Olivier Theyskens' A/W collection for Rochas in microcosm. The 'S'-shaped curve upon which he has based his career at the redoubtable Parisian couture house was alive and well at the Tuilleries tonight; Theyskens' hallmark, boned dresses (centre) and long, fitted skirts with trains paid continued homage... [more]
By Penny Martin, 19:09 Wed 01 Mar 2006
There were no great surprises in Vèronique Branquinho's A/W '06-7 collection, but then, flitting from one concept to another is not the name of the Belgian designer's particular game. Creating reliable, elegant daywear for thinking, young women is more Branquinho's stock-in-trade, and how often does that market change their mind... [more]
By Penny Martin, 16:50 Wed 01 Mar 2006
Suzy Menkes, Cathy Horyn and SHOWstudio stalwart Susannah Frankel are 'essential reads' when it comes to working out where you stand in relation to the key opinions in fashion criticism. That is, when it comes to print. For comprehensive, online breakdowns of every single show given space during fashion week... [more]
By Penny Martin, 14:41 Wed 01 Mar 2006
I once saw a couple of brilliant books called something like 'Front Row and Back Row' in Colette. I have a feeling they may have been photographed by the late, great Gauthier Galle (someone please write in and tell me if they recall them). Their very simple concept was that... [more]
By Studio, 12:00 Wed 01 Mar 2006
All of the thirty-second shorts from our MOVING FASHION series, including contributions from Simon Foxton, Glen Luchford, Fabien Baron, Kate Moss, David Bailey, Steven Klein, Katie Grand[/art
By Penny Martin, 00:13 Wed 01 Mar 2006
"The three key influences behind the collection this season were: Steven Meisel, Victoria Beckham and Axl Rose" read the show notes at tonight's Christian Dior Autumn/Winter '06-07 defilé. Just kidding!! But the fly shades, knotted headbands and gothic palette beloved of those three were much in evidence on the mirrored... [more]