SHOWstudio: Blog: SHOW REPORTS S/S '07 (London/Milan/Paris): YSL re-see

SHOW REPORTS S/S '07 (London/Milan/Paris): YSL re-see

By Penny Martin, 09:16 Fri 06 Oct 2006

An early morning appointment at YSL -we were first in at 9!- confirms that the S/S collection demands close-up scrutiny. What a seat in the gods couldn't show you was the exemplary workmanship that has come with Pilati's time at the brand. Contrary to initial appearances, the first sequence of volumatic, checked suiting is relatively light, using woven horsehair to create the fine, tensile structure of upholstery. Jackets, tops and dresses are based around the principle of aprons, with menswear elements of braces and straps balanced against the sweetness of the tie-backs and bows. The overriding violet emblem was worked into beautiful organdy applique on shirts and dresses as well as fashioned (by Lesage) from crushed sequins to embellish this evening gilet. As reported last night, such technical innovation was combined with homage, particularly in the psychadellic prints with panne velvet applique, which Pilati says was inspired by the peace activists of the 1970s and are his attempt to situate these luxurious clothes in the current world climate.

View this project

Comments (4)

Comments are also posted to the Blog Comments Forum

the ornamenation was what did it for me. i loved the jewellery - the strange combination of abalone, black ash wooden chunks and gold especially. did pilati design the jewellery?

By detlev at 14:08 Fri 06 Oct 2006 | reply to this >

I believe so, yes, they said he designed it and also -did I say?- the violet print was from a watercolour that Pilati did by hand.

You are so right, DL, I've been thinking about this. It's the degree of ornamentation that stops his collections spinning off into totally Bourgeois territory. In a strange twist, the decoration becomes subversive.

By at 11:48 Mon 09 Oct 2006 | reply to this >

I believe so, yes. I agree with you totally; perversely, it's the ornamentation that makes these -ultimately very Bourgeois clothes- quite subversive. Doesn't sound logical, does it?

By Penny Martin at 18:00 Thu 12 Oct 2006 | reply to this >

it is very strange Penny and i think it is the treatment of the idea of 'ornamental' that is being played with so successfully here. the jewellery manages an elegance in its clunkiness with colours and hues combined so irreverently that the forms almost intimate another hegemony of ornamentation. for that reason I actually find this collection much more futuristic than Baleciaga's rendition which I felt plundered many of the 60's tropes and hardened them into a more angular and jagged silhouette. I would also like to add that big jewellery has always suffered a bad reputation (especially on the west coast of America where everything has to be dainty, classic and inconspicuous)where larger pieces have so often been earmarked for the larger lady. If anything, big pieces can accentuate the petiteness of a lady and make a more charmingly tactile affectation.

By detlev at 22:03 Sun 15 Oct 2006 | reply to this >

Add a comment

Requires Log-in (You are not logged in)