SHOW REPORTS S/S '07 (London/Milan/Paris): Undercover's Greatest Hits Show
Jun Takahashi just fired off every fashion reference in the book for his excellent A/W show. To a knowing Nouvelle Vague soundtrack of cover versions, the inspired Japanese designer referenced everyone from YSL (past and present), Chanel, Lanvin, Madame Gres, Margiela and doubtless others. Only for a designer as dark and maverick as Takahashi could this chic, sexy, polished and Bourgeois collection constitute a sincere and subversive statement.
i especially liked the colours in this collection: mustard, deep purple, bleeding pomegranate and ingenue pink set glamorously against a fluttering hinterland of noirish pleats and ruffles. if this show was a gleeful poaching of the parisian fashion timeline with all its trefoiled gaberdines and jewel necklines, it was only further testament to the fact that a return to the 'properness' of dressing up has been markedly restored in today's fashion lexicon. not sure what to make of clever clogs v&r's show on meta-glamour though. why do northern europeans always insist on taking irony further than it needs to be taken? their collection was charming though and i liked the cartoonish celestial borders on decolletage and hemlines and the animated spaghetti strap skirts and jackets. at v&r the shredded tailoring was nicely polished and worked unlike comme des garcons where it was rendered with a more bucolic botched charm. i have to say, i was taken by the gauzey, insect like peter pan collars that poked out in flesh-tones and red. i just can't understand why they don't do more of these collars for men. once again, i was shocked at the v&r menswear: uninspiring, weekend topshop fodder ready for TKMAX lovers everywhere. when will people learn, graffiti and slogans are never a good idea. vivienne can go wrong with this too, it is the only thing she goes awry on but i am dying to find out how her show went, i hope you didn't miss it penny!
By detlev at 12:39 Tue 03 Oct 2006 | reply to this >